What are my options for environmentally safe treatments for grub infestations in a lawn/garden other than nematodes. (I know someone who said nematodes are not very effective - perhaps this is because the grubs are from a larger beetle - not the Japanese beetle?) A tip where to purchase items are also helpful. I have seen items at Menards and Bachman's. Thank you.

Hi: I bought 3 small Quercus prinoides oak trees so they would produce acorns for wildlife. Q1. I was wondering how tall & especially wide you believe they will get in north central MD so I can determine how close to plant them to create a small forest in my side yard. I have searched the Internet and see answers from all over the USA showing 6-25 ft tall and wide. But I was wondering if you have a more accurate expectation for the Carroll County area (Finksburg 8 miles from both Westminster and Eldersburg). Q2. I bought chicken wire to make a fence around them and then on YouTube saw a video talking about burying the wire into the ground to prevent bark damage from rodents and digging rabbits. It did not state how deep to plant the chicken wire. The wire is 1/2" squares which is hopefully tiny enough. Any idea? I would hate to lose these trees are they were very hard to find locally + a bit expensive. Thank you so much! Jim

Our elderberry has wilt--guessing it's verticillium. It begins to wllt in July and plant completely stops growing. Leaves curl & turn black. Do we need to remove the plant? We love the color & leaf shape. Can we plant another where this one was? If yes, it there a variety of elderberry that's resistant/immune to verticillium wilt? Thank you.

Currently live on 4 acres and I am interested in planting more trees and refurbishing our woods. Is there a program where someone comes out and plants trees?? What and who does the trees that I see with what looks like the "PVC pipes" around the trunks of small trees? Is there an application process or something that I can do to "qualify" to have trees planted on my property?

Hello, I need help selecting the exact type of grass seed for my lawn. I've reviewed info on the U of M Extension website but find it very broad and am still confused as to what would work best for my lawn. I have a neglected, north-facing front lawn with 1/3 in semi-shade and 2/3 in sun. The lawn has broader-leaved grasses that grow in clumps and look awful. Plus, many bald spots in the lawn. I am planning to rent a slice/slit seeder and overseed the lawn with new grass seed that is going to grow in a finer-blade, more uniform, lush carpet-like appearance. Other details: - I tested the soil (report attached) and it's not obviously deficient in any nutrients. - I have a robotic lawn mower that shaves off 2-3 mm of grass and automatically mulches the lawn with those fine clippings. - I do not have a sprinkler system but will be watering the new grass. Could you please recommend specific grass seed type(s) that would work best to create a new carpet-like (vs. clump-like) lawn? Thank you.

Garden is 25' x 35'...pollinator garden, filling with natives, including blueberries and hydrangeas...I know that those shrubs need more acidic soil,..,should I separate those areas from the flower beds when sending samples?

My neighbor has a yew and the needles are turning yellow and then to brown. Can you diagnose from the attached photos what is causing this to happen? Thank you in advance.

Hello, I'm a student reporter at WKAR and I'm hoping to get in touch with someone about how planting and crop development is coming along for this grow season. I would love the chance to potentially interview someone to learn how this year's weather and relatively early spring might affect crop yields, and what farmers/agriculture experts have to say about this. I look forward to it!

I live in southern Calvert County and every year mid February I start my broccoli and cabbage plants from seed inside under grow lights. I always end up with healthy, vibrant transplants that I put out very late March or early April depending on weather. I always harden them off first by gradually exposing them to cooler days and/or nights first. Every year after planting in the garden they go into decline or stagnate for weeks with some of them dying and others pulling out and finally resuming growth. Some of the broccoli plants immediately produce a very weak flower head which is obviously not preferable. I have noticed that very healthy root systems diminish or disappear and it appears as if something is chewing on the stem at or slightly beneath the soil surface. I have tried applying insecticides at time of planting with no results. I also side dress with a very small amount of 5-10-5 fertilizer and have done a few soil tests showing no deficiencies and a pH of 6.8. I have occasionally noticed some very small almost clear "worms" around the sick plants and suspect that they might be nematodes. Attached are two photos of an affected broccoli plant that was very healthy at planting. Thank you.