They might be eating grubs, but they can eat a wide variety of other invertebrates that might not be harming the lawn. Grub populations need to be fairly high before lawn damage occurs and control measures are needed. They also tend not to be a problem on lawns dominated by tall fescue (the turf type most widely grown here and recommended as the best type to grow). The two types of cool-season turfgrass usually affected by grubs are Kentucky bluegrass and creeping red fescue, neither of which are recommended as the dominant lawn component in our area due to various problems they can develop in our climate (grubs being the least of their issues). We suggest that you confirm the presence of grubs (in concentrations of about a dozen grubs per square foot of lawn area by test-checking a few spots before attempting treatment. It's likely the racoons are going after something else. Our White Grub Management on Lawns page provides options for control if it is needed. If a pesticide is chosen, the level of risk to wildlife (including birds, though songbirds are not usually the type of bird evaluated by the EPA) are included in the product label details. Very low-risk options include beneficial nematodes and bacteria-derived Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis; strains specific to beetles). Be aware, though, that we don't have research information yet on how that Bt might affect harmless beetle larvae living in or near a lawn, like fireflies.

Areas of lawn damaged by racoons (and skunks, which create similar damage for similar reasons) can be leveled-out and overseeded (or patched with sod if extensive). Spring seeding is okay if needed, though autumn is ideal since it's easier for new grass to establish then.

Leaf spots on Rhododendron can be hard to diagnose, especially without photo examples to assess, because of symptom overlap from multiple possible causes. Most leaf spotting on shrubs and trees is minor and not a serious threat to plant health, even if an eyesore. Years with wet spring or summer weather (or frequent irrigation that wets the leaves) promote the development of fungal or bacterial leaf infections. Infections in rhododendron that progress down the stem and kill the branch tips are more significant and need to be pruned off and disposed of (don't compost the debris).

No fungicide will cure any infection, as they are preventative measures only, helping to suppress new infections while spores are still on the surface of the plant. Once the pathogen is inside tissues and causing symptoms, the disease cannot be reversed, though sometimes fungicides can suppress further spread depending on the pathogen and the chemical. Fungicide ingredients may carry some risk to bees or other pollinators, especially if they need to be applied while a plant is in bloom. Applications are also often needed several times each year to keep an infection at bay, so tend not to be very cost-effective versus replacing a shrub that develops recurring problems.

Two common causes of dieback on Rhododendron are both fungal: Phytophthora (either as a branch infection or as root rot, which can also result in branch dieback because the declining roots cannot support all of the branches) and Botryosphaeria. The former causes problems in damp conditions and the latter in drought, when weakened shrubs can be infected by the fungus that has been harmlessly present for months or years.

The damage caused by either infection needs to be trimmed off promptly after it's noticed; the branch cannot recover and regrow, even if the infection ends. However, buds lying dormant under the bark, further down on the live stems, could be stimulated to emerge if the growth above them has died back or is removed for any other reason. Rhododendron don't generally grow very quickly, so depending on how much growth is lost, recovery from those new sprouts could take several years, assuming those young branches don't get infected in the meantime.

For now, all you can do other than trimming off dead/dying branches is to make sure the shrub is monitored for watering needs during dry spells (the drought from last year is still present, as it happens...see the linked map for the state). The soil needs to be very well-drained since rhododendron do not tolerate prolonged soil sogginess. (Does a roof downspout outlet empty nearby, for instance? If so, maybe it can be redirected, or the shrub moved to another location.)

Our rhododendron diagnostic web page lists the common ailments for this group of plants in Maryland. Unfortunately, both root rot and Botryosphaeria canker are fairly common, though some cultivars of rhododendron are more inherently resistant to certain infections or stressors (like summer heat, compacted soil, or too much direct sun in summer) than others. Extension doesn't have a reference list of top-performing cultivars since this is not something we've tested, though a local chapter of the American Rhododendron Society might have an updated list if you ever need to replace one. Such plants may be resistant to problems, but they won't necessarily be immune.

If you'd like to share photos of the symptoms and how extensive they are, we're happy to take a look, though we might not be able to tell what the exact pathogen is.

Miri