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Spotted Lantern Fly #892348

Asked February 05, 2025, 4:54 PM EST

Hello, I live in a condo community in Columbia and need to replace the 15 yr silver maple in my tiny front yard. Currently there are only three types of trees I can replace it with-all red and green Japanese maples. The "board" would be open to other small trees. Can you suggest any and do you have any guidelines on how long to wait before planting a new tree? The silver maple tree is heavily infested with the spotted lantern fly.

Howard County Maryland

Expert Response

We recommend the use of a native tree instead of Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum), which has shown some invasive tendencies (via self-seeding) within Maryland woodlands. The only requirement for a waiting period for planting after tree removal is dependent on how much the remaining roots and stump interfere with digging a hole for the new tree. (Planting holes should be dug no deeper than the current root ball depth of the tree being planted, but at least 2 to 3 times as wide as that root ball size.) How much material is removed via stump grinding (it will never all of it, but the amount can vary based on the machine and its use) and how long it takes to decay the rest of the wood left behind enough to dig through is hard to predict. If left to natural devices, decay may take several years to make the site of a former tree trunk suitable for planting without special equipment to remove debris. If you have enough space to plant the new tree off to the side, where digging won't be hampered by large roots from the old tree, then you can plant sooner. As the old wood decays, it won't harm live roots of other trees nearby, but the risk of soil sinking as the old wood disintegrates might affect the soil grade over time, which might give a lean to a young tree if the sinking is pronounced. Despite their fast growth rate, a 15-year-old silver maple likely wouldn't have been massive enough to cause a drastic soil grade change, though.

No waiting period is needed with regards to Spotted Lanternfly, which can use a large and diverse array of plant species as a food source, and they are present throughout the state at this point, so will be present here for some time before populations hopefully diminish as predators learn to eat more of them.

Options for replacement trees can depend on the site's growing conditions, such as how much direct summer sun it receives (does the building shade it half the day?), how well-drained the soil is (any roof downspouts empty into the root zone?), and to a lesser extent, if deer are likely to eat the foliage. If deer move through that area regularly, it would be safest to protect any young tree's trunk with a barrier to "buck rub" (antler rubbing just ahead of mating season), which can seriously injure or even kill a small tree.

We'll assume for now that the site is mostly sunny, drains well, and deer browsing isn't a major concern. Here are some ideas, but it's not an exhaustive list. You didn't mention if there was a  height limit (any overhead utility lines?), but "small" for a tree tends to be in the 20- to 30-foot mature height range. Some cultivars of the listings below stay more compact and mature shorter than 20 feet. Botanical names are in parentheses, since common names sometimes vary for the same plant.
  • Serviceberry (Amelanchier, several species and hybrids) -- can be single-trunked or multi-trunked
  • Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis) -- many compact varieties, including a couple weeping forms
  • Sweetbay Magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) -- some varieties are a little more compact-growing than others; not completely evergreen in our area, but often keeps some leaves in winter while dropping the rest
  • Crabapple (Malus, many hybrid varieties that aren't native, but which are very similar to our hard-to-find native species) -- many varieties stay under 20 feet
  • Blackhaw Viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium) -- usually sold as a shrub, but can mature into a small tree in time
  • Green Hawthorn (Crataegus viridis, with variety 'Winter King' being among the most commonly available)
  • Common Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana) -- grown more as a large, broad shrub than a typical tree, it can get reach size of a small tree (with wide branching) over time
  • American Hornbeam (Carpinus caroliniana) -- doesn't have showy flowers, but the trunk can have year-round interest
  • dwarf River Birch (Betula nigra, specifically the variety 'Little King', which also goes by the name of Fox Valley) -- has the same interesting peeling bark and multi-trunked habit as the tall-growing parent species, just in a smaller stature

Miri

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