It's hard to tell for certain from the photos, but it appears to be older leaves that are senescing (getting ready to shed). If so, that is normal, but might be exacerbated by the plant's exposure to what looks like very low light. Unless the plant was moved into that spot only for the photos, it does not appear to be near a window or a grow light, and even houseplants tolerant of lower light really need good light indoors to thrive and limit leaf loss. Philodendron and Monstera, for example, would prefer being placed within a couple feet of a bright window (southern- or western-facing), or in front of a northern- or eastern-facing window. Several feet away, they will receive much less light. The further from a window a plant sits, the less light it can photosynthesize with to make enough food for itself to keep all of the leaves alive and to support new growth. In response, the plant sacrifices some of its oldest leaves to try to recycle some of its resources. The decline in usable light with small changes in distance from a window or grow light is a more drastic change than our eyes perceive, so it can have dramatic effects on a plant over time.

Other contributing factors to leaf yellowing and shedding include over- and under-watering. Make sure the plant's pot has drainage (at least one hole in the bottom that isn't blocked by gravel or pot shards), and that any saucer it may sit on to catch drips is emptied promptly after watering, so that extra drained water doesn't soak back up into the soil, risking root rot. To check when watering is needed, feel the soil at least an inch or two down (perhaps three inches down for larger pots like this). If the soil has become somewhat dry to the touch at that depth, water well, but if it's damp when checked, watering can probably wait.

If the plant hasn't been repotted in more than a couple of years, refresh the soil by removing the old potting mix and replacing it with fresh mix. This removes any "salt" build-up, which is not necessarily sodium in this case, but rather mineral residue from both tap water and unused fertilizer nutrients. Over time, high levels of salt in potting soil can stress or damage roots, leading to foliage symptoms like yellowing, "burnt" leaf tips, and dying leaves. Your plant doesn't appear to have this issue currently (or if present, it's minor), but it's something to investigate if the leaf shed continues and watering frequency isn't a problem. Salt buildup can look like a white or yellowish crusty deposit on the surface of the potting soil or around the pot rim.

Low indoor humidity can also cause leaf tip browning and premature leaf shedding, but we're not far enough into fall and winter yet for that to be a primary suspect for these symptoms. Still, it's something to keep in mind going forward if the symptoms continue. If needed, a room humidifier can help to raise humidity (misting leaves with water will not help, and might invite leaf infections instead).

Did the plant spend the summer outside? If so, it has an adjustment period that may last several weeks once brought in for the season, as conditions are very different indoors versus outdoors. Assuming the plant gets good light, new leaves will adjust to their new conditions and be less likely to shed compared to old leaves that cannot adjust to drier air and lower light.

Miri

Thank you for your quick reply. The plant was just moved to that spot and I never thought to think about the lighting. I just moved the plant to a very well light room within my home. I hope to see a turn of events soon. Thank you! Khadijah

You're welcome. Since damaged leaves cannot green-up again or heal, they may continue to deteriorate and eventually fall off, but that's the natural progression of a dying leaf. If the younger leaves remain healthy-looking, though, then that can be an indication that the plant is stabilizing and not as stressed as it may have been before.

Miri