This late in the season, you likely don't need to intervene since foliage will soon be shedding. It's hard to diagnose without images of the symptoms, but one primary suspect is oak lace bug, a common insect that causes cosmetic but no serious damage to foliage. Another contributing factor might be the drought that much of the state experienced for at least part of this growing season, if the trees weren't being watered during periods of dry weather or high heat. You could certainly have a certified arborist assess the tree, but sometimes arborists recommend treatment for conditions that don't require intervention.

Miri

Hi Miri:

Thanks for your quick reply.  I am only writing to get clarity about your statement of "It's hard to diagnose without images of the symptoms" (underline and bold added by me). 

I did attach a photo of the leaves and if you did not receive it, please let me know and I can send it to you again.  

Thank you,

Jim 

  

Hello Jim,

Unfortunately, no, there was no indication on our end of a photo having been sent, so for some reason we didn't receive it. If you can try again (either attaching files or pasting the images directly into the body of your reply), we're happy to take a look to see if the issue is lace bug damage or something else.

Miri

Hi Miri:

Attached is the photo of the leaves of my dwarf Chinkapin oak.  

Hopefully you will receive the photo this time which shows the blotches, brown dots, and a yellowish color on the leaves.

Thanks for your efforts on this question.

Jim 

 

Got the photo this time, thank you. This is definitely not oak lace bug damage (though it's always possible that they show up in the future, when the tree is older). Our plant pathologist confirms that this does not look like a pathogenic issue (that is, not a disease of concern, if an infection at all) and is likely due, at least in part, to environmental stress. This looks like a very young sapling, in which case we presume it was planted in the past couple of years or so? If yes, then it's probably related to root moisture levels, and while minor leaf spot infections can be very common on most shade tree species, they don't cause the plant any long-term harm and can be ignored, even if the tree is a height easily treated with fungicide.

We don't recommend any intervention here, aside from continuing to monitor them for watering needs given how dry it's been for most of this growing season. If you can, keep the turfgrass well away from the trunk(s) so that mowing or weed-whacking (or herbicide applications, if you use any) do not injure the tree, the wounds of which can be significant or even fatal. Grass also competes with the roots of trees, especially while they're still getting established, and increasing the distance between lawn and trunk will help. Mulch can be used to cover any bare soil, but don't have it touching the trunk itself, and keep the layer only about 2-3 inches thick in a flat disc, not the mounded "volcano" common to trees mulched by poorly-trained landscapers.

Miri