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Hello, I live in Washtenaw County and last year I planted about 18 Fruit Trees 10 Cherries, 5 Apple and
3 Asian Plums. The trees are about 1-1/2&quo...
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New orchard #865184
Asked April 19, 2024, 8:03 PM EDT
Hello, I live in Washtenaw County and last year I planted about 18 Fruit Trees 10 Cherries, 5 Apple and
3 Asian Plums. The trees are about 1-1/2" stocks and they stand about 5 ft. to 6-1/2 ft. They are blooming now very well, I wanted to ask what should I be doing at this stage because of the 1) cold weather coming, what can I do to Protect the trees? 2) I need a pest control regimen, In the past I have used Neem Oil
3) Any pruning at this stage? and what type.
Thank you for your help
Washtenaw County Michigan
Expert Response
Hello,
A GREAT GUIDE TO HAVE:
Check out the Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide (Ohio State University) at this link:
https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/mw_home_fruit_productn_b591.pdf
In particular,
Chapter 2 Tree Fruits
Chapter 7 Pest Management and Disease Control in Home Fruit Plantings
If you want a printed Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide (Ohio State University) go to this link:
https://extensionpubs.osu.edu/midwest-home-fruit-production-guide/
This should answer your Question 2:
Check out the Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings Guide at this link:
https://cuyahoga.osu.edu/sites/cuyahoga/files/imce/Program_Pages/ANR/DigIn/Controlling%20Diseases%20and%20Insects%20in%20Home%20Fruit%20Plantings%2C%20Bulletin%20780%20%28whole%29.pdf
********************************************************
This should answer your Question 1
Winter protection for young fruit trees is crucial to ensure their survival and healthy growth. Here are some effective practices to safeguard your young fruit trees during the cold months:
Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree but avoid piling it up against the trunk. The mulch layer should be thicker than what you use during the growing season. Mulch helps insulate the soil, regulates temperature, and prevents frost heaving.
Tree Guards: Wrap the trunk with a tree guard shortly after planting. Tree guards deter bark-chewing critters like rabbits and protect against sunscald and trunk splitting. Use exterior white latex paint mixed with water (50/50 ratio) to prevent bark splitting.
Sanitation:
Remove any remaining fruit on the tree or fallen fruit from the ground. This reduces disease and insect problems for the next growing season.
Rake up fallen leaves around the tree, especially for apple trees. Apple scab, a common fungal disease, overwinters in leaf debris and can infect new growth in spring.
Pruning:
Avoid extensive pruning in fall. Only cut dead wood. Major pruning should wait until early spring.
Fertilization:
Refrain from fertilizing with nitrogen-containing products after July. Nitrogen can interfere with the tree’s hardening-off process.
Keep lawn fertilizers away from fruit trees within 20 feet.
Remember that while these practices help, weather conditions from earlier and next growing seasons also play a role in your fruit trees’ success
********************************************************
This should answer your Question 3:
Pruning and training young fruit trees is essential for developing a strong tree structure and ensuring optimal fruit production. Let’s delve into the basics of pruning and training for apples, cherries, and plums:
Why Train Fruit Trees?
Training helps create a robust tree framework that can support heavy fruit loads without limb breakage.
It accelerates fruit production in young trees.
Pruning young trees can enhance structural strength and encourage branching.
For mature trees, pruning increases fruit yield and improves fruit quality.
Common Pruning Terms:
Branch Collar: The raised tissue at the base of every branch, sealing off pruning wounds from wood rot fungi.
Crotch Angle: The angle between the trunk and a limb (optimal at 45 to 60 degrees).
Crown: The base of the trunk where it meets the soil.
Lateral Branch: A side shoot off another branch.
Leader: The uppermost portion of a scaffold limb.
Scaffold Limb: A large limb forming the tree’s framework.
Spur: A short shoot that bears fruit.
Thinning Cut: Removing an entire branch from its point of origin.
Vertical Branch: An upright-growing branch.
Water Sprout: A 1-year-old shoot growing within the tree.
General Rules for Training:
Start training at planting time.
Remove unwanted shoots when they’re small.
Prioritize limb positioning over excessive pruning.
Consistently follow the training program to complete proper training promptly.
Pruning Mature Trees:
Prune more heavily for mature trees, especially if they’ve shown minimal growth.
Remember, early tree training helps prevent large pruning wounds low in the tree, which could become infected. By actively managing your fruit trees, you’ll ensure healthy growth and abundant harvests
More information is at the below links:
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/pnw400
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/know-how-know-more/2020-04-10-how-prune-fruit-trees-and-maximize-your-home-orchard
https://extension.purdue.edu/county/vigo/_docs/Training-and-Pruning-Fruit-Trees.pdf
https://www.shawnee.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/Pruning%20Fruit%20Trees.pdf
I hope this helps!
A GREAT GUIDE TO HAVE:
Check out the Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide (Ohio State University) at this link:
https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/mw_home_fruit_productn_b591.pdf
In particular,
Chapter 2 Tree Fruits
Chapter 7 Pest Management and Disease Control in Home Fruit Plantings
If you want a printed Midwest Home Fruit Production Guide (Ohio State University) go to this link:
https://extensionpubs.osu.edu/midwest-home-fruit-production-guide/
This should answer your Question 2:
Check out the Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings Guide at this link:
https://cuyahoga.osu.edu/sites/cuyahoga/files/imce/Program_Pages/ANR/DigIn/Controlling%20Diseases%20and%20Insects%20in%20Home%20Fruit%20Plantings%2C%20Bulletin%20780%20%28whole%29.pdf
********************************************************
This should answer your Question 1
Winter protection for young fruit trees is crucial to ensure their survival and healthy growth. Here are some effective practices to safeguard your young fruit trees during the cold months:
Mulching: Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree but avoid piling it up against the trunk. The mulch layer should be thicker than what you use during the growing season. Mulch helps insulate the soil, regulates temperature, and prevents frost heaving.
Tree Guards: Wrap the trunk with a tree guard shortly after planting. Tree guards deter bark-chewing critters like rabbits and protect against sunscald and trunk splitting. Use exterior white latex paint mixed with water (50/50 ratio) to prevent bark splitting.
Sanitation:
Remove any remaining fruit on the tree or fallen fruit from the ground. This reduces disease and insect problems for the next growing season.
Rake up fallen leaves around the tree, especially for apple trees. Apple scab, a common fungal disease, overwinters in leaf debris and can infect new growth in spring.
Pruning:
Avoid extensive pruning in fall. Only cut dead wood. Major pruning should wait until early spring.
Fertilization:
Refrain from fertilizing with nitrogen-containing products after July. Nitrogen can interfere with the tree’s hardening-off process.
Keep lawn fertilizers away from fruit trees within 20 feet.
Remember that while these practices help, weather conditions from earlier and next growing seasons also play a role in your fruit trees’ success
********************************************************
This should answer your Question 3:
Pruning and training young fruit trees is essential for developing a strong tree structure and ensuring optimal fruit production. Let’s delve into the basics of pruning and training for apples, cherries, and plums:
Why Train Fruit Trees?
Training helps create a robust tree framework that can support heavy fruit loads without limb breakage.
It accelerates fruit production in young trees.
Pruning young trees can enhance structural strength and encourage branching.
For mature trees, pruning increases fruit yield and improves fruit quality.
Common Pruning Terms:
Branch Collar: The raised tissue at the base of every branch, sealing off pruning wounds from wood rot fungi.
Crotch Angle: The angle between the trunk and a limb (optimal at 45 to 60 degrees).
Crown: The base of the trunk where it meets the soil.
Lateral Branch: A side shoot off another branch.
Leader: The uppermost portion of a scaffold limb.
Scaffold Limb: A large limb forming the tree’s framework.
Spur: A short shoot that bears fruit.
Thinning Cut: Removing an entire branch from its point of origin.
Vertical Branch: An upright-growing branch.
Water Sprout: A 1-year-old shoot growing within the tree.
General Rules for Training:
Start training at planting time.
Remove unwanted shoots when they’re small.
Prioritize limb positioning over excessive pruning.
Consistently follow the training program to complete proper training promptly.
Pruning Mature Trees:
Prune more heavily for mature trees, especially if they’ve shown minimal growth.
Remember, early tree training helps prevent large pruning wounds low in the tree, which could become infected. By actively managing your fruit trees, you’ll ensure healthy growth and abundant harvests
More information is at the below links:
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/pnw400
https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/know-how-know-more/2020-04-10-how-prune-fruit-trees-and-maximize-your-home-orchard
https://extension.purdue.edu/county/vigo/_docs/Training-and-Pruning-Fruit-Trees.pdf
https://www.shawnee.k-state.edu/lawn-garden/Pruning%20Fruit%20Trees.pdf
I hope this helps!
