Forest Pansy - How Best to Prune - Slowly Dying? - Ask Extension
Hello,
Thank you so much for offering this service!
We have a Forest Pansy/Redbud tree that we planted perhaps 17 years ago. It's matured and gr...
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Forest Pansy - How Best to Prune - Slowly Dying? #861925
Asked March 19, 2024, 10:59 AM EDT
Hello,
Thank you so much for offering this service!
We have a Forest Pansy/Redbud tree that we planted perhaps 17 years ago. It's matured and grown nicely, but seems to be "slowly" dying away. It's beautiful, we love it, and want to do all we can to preserve it. If you can help, that would be fantastic.
Within the last few years I've cut off a couple major limbs as they had no leaves and the end branches were dry and somewhat brittle. The remaining canopy has had a thinner covering of leaves in the past few years. We have some volunteer growth now at the base of the tree, which would make me think there are some healthy roots somewhere. But, what to do?
Should I cut off the lowest, large limb that is reaching over the neighbors property? Our house is the cream/yellow covered house. Should I cut the "volunteer" limb growth from the base of the tree? Should I thin out the outer limbs on all the branches?
In addition to what to trim, am I correct that this is a good time to trim/prune? Would you recommend any other care? Particular nutrients, watering schedule, etc.? I'll be glad to provide any additional information you feel would be helpful, and thank you again for entertaining my question!
Summit County Ohio
Expert Response
Thank you for your question about the care of your Forest Pansy Redbud. From the photos you submitted it looks like your tree is stressed. You are right - when the tree is dormant is the best time to prune - and that's where I'd start. You want to get this job done before the tree breaks bud, like yesterday. :) (That timing is best, but it will not harm the tree to be pruned afterwards - just cause it to direct energy into new growth that may not be wanted.)
I would start by cutting off the new branching coming off the lower trunk, and especially the branch coming up from the root system. I suspect you don't know if your tree was grafted or grown on it's own roots, and that shoot coming from the roots is likely from non-Forest Pansy rootstock.
I would prune off the vertical growth from the side branches. These are called "water shoots", and are not as strong and viable as other branches. Cut off all dead or diseased branches. Cut off all crossing branches. Cut to create air circulation in the tree canopy.
Make sure you make good pruning cuts - just after a bud or branch. Here's an article that details that:
https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruning-cuts.shtml
After your pruning is done, make sure that you have properly mulched your tree. Mulch should not be up against the bark (an invitation to disease pathogens), and should allow the tree flare (the part where the roots start growing horizontally) to be above ground. If you tree was planted improperly all those years ago (planting with the root flare below ground), that can be a cause of tree decline now.
Do not fertilize your tree. In general trees do not need fertilizers, and a stressed tree does not need this shot of nitrogen that will force growth at the expense of fighting stress agents.
As to your question of cutting the branch going over your neighbor's fence, I think this is an aesthetic question that is up to you. Making that cut would improve the balance of the tree, but it would also remove a large proportion of the canopy, which the tree requires for growth. Perhaps you could remove it in stages, cutting back a third of it in each of the next three years.
In general, Redbuds are short-lived trees. They are susceptive to a number of diseases, and the best way to keep one thriving as long as possible is to provide the best growing conditions: full sun to part shade, good drainage, good pruning technique, and irrigation during dry conditions. The University of Wisconsin Extension says this about redbuds:
It is important to have the right genetic material as cold hardiness varies considerably. Twig kill and dieback in colder zones is not uncommon. Some other drawbacks are that the wood can be brittle with older trees splitting at crotches and branches breaking off in wind and a heavy snow, and this species tends to be short-lived, especially if stressed.
It has few insect pests other than scales and is not favored by deer, but is susceptible to Verticillium wilt (especially in wet sites) and Botryosphaeria canker.
I would give your tree a good pruning right now, and then make sure it doesn't dry out when summer dry spells come. You describe a tree in decline (thinning canopy and dead branches), and your efforts may give you more years of enjoyment.
Wishing you a successful project!
I would start by cutting off the new branching coming off the lower trunk, and especially the branch coming up from the root system. I suspect you don't know if your tree was grafted or grown on it's own roots, and that shoot coming from the roots is likely from non-Forest Pansy rootstock.
I would prune off the vertical growth from the side branches. These are called "water shoots", and are not as strong and viable as other branches. Cut off all dead or diseased branches. Cut off all crossing branches. Cut to create air circulation in the tree canopy.
Make sure you make good pruning cuts - just after a bud or branch. Here's an article that details that:
https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruning-cuts.shtml
After your pruning is done, make sure that you have properly mulched your tree. Mulch should not be up against the bark (an invitation to disease pathogens), and should allow the tree flare (the part where the roots start growing horizontally) to be above ground. If you tree was planted improperly all those years ago (planting with the root flare below ground), that can be a cause of tree decline now.
Do not fertilize your tree. In general trees do not need fertilizers, and a stressed tree does not need this shot of nitrogen that will force growth at the expense of fighting stress agents.
As to your question of cutting the branch going over your neighbor's fence, I think this is an aesthetic question that is up to you. Making that cut would improve the balance of the tree, but it would also remove a large proportion of the canopy, which the tree requires for growth. Perhaps you could remove it in stages, cutting back a third of it in each of the next three years.
In general, Redbuds are short-lived trees. They are susceptive to a number of diseases, and the best way to keep one thriving as long as possible is to provide the best growing conditions: full sun to part shade, good drainage, good pruning technique, and irrigation during dry conditions. The University of Wisconsin Extension says this about redbuds:
It is important to have the right genetic material as cold hardiness varies considerably. Twig kill and dieback in colder zones is not uncommon. Some other drawbacks are that the wood can be brittle with older trees splitting at crotches and branches breaking off in wind and a heavy snow, and this species tends to be short-lived, especially if stressed.
It has few insect pests other than scales and is not favored by deer, but is susceptible to Verticillium wilt (especially in wet sites) and Botryosphaeria canker.
I would give your tree a good pruning right now, and then make sure it doesn't dry out when summer dry spells come. You describe a tree in decline (thinning canopy and dead branches), and your efforts may give you more years of enjoyment.
Wishing you a successful project!
