can this tree-let be saved? - Ask Extension
Hello, this is a Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Compacta' Hinoki Cypress that was planted early May 2021, planted by the nursery I bought it from, Cornell Farm...
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can this tree-let be saved? #855415
Asked November 16, 2023, 6:45 PM EST
Hello, this is a Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Compacta' Hinoki Cypress that was planted early May 2021, planted by the nursery I bought it from, Cornell Farms. It gets full sun, is only about 6 -7 feet tall. It got blasted by the heat dome that year, but recovered. I had noticed the cone-like things at the top in the spring, which I thought meant that it was healthy. Then this September this year I noticed all of the yellow needles. I'm wondering if maybe I didn't water it enough this summer. Thought that it was drought-resistant, but maybe it wasn't established enough after 2 years to be resistant enough? Is there anything I can do? Thanks so much for your help, I love the Extension!
Multnomah County Oregon
Expert Response
I was just in a study group talking about this sort of tree and our conifer expert discussed how difficult it is to diagnose a recently planted failure to thrive.
Assuming it was planted correctly, under-watering is a likely culprit. It is generally recommended in recent years to occasionally deeply water even established trees. (ODF reference link)
Recently planted trees need extra care for a recommended three years (link to EC 1438). This linked publication covers selecting and planting new trees, so is also useful if you need to replace this tree.
I should back up a bit: the cones are natural for this tree and something many gardeners consider an ornamental bonus. It could be that producing them when the tree is so small is a response to stress, but we don't know for sure.
The die back of oldest foliage is also natural. Each fall this will happen to some degree, known as "flagging". Your tree seems to have excessive loss, so you're right to consider changing it's care. Perhaps adequate watering next summer will generate new growth and next fall you won't be worrying. Be sure to reach in and test the soil moisture right at the root ball. One person in my study group uses moisture meters. Don't over-correct and drown the roots either. I usually use a trowel and my finger. A screw driver works too: where you hit resistance is the dry soil. It should be moist as deep as you can reach with the tool.
Lastly, one test for a newer established tree is to give it a little shove or tug. In two years the roots should be established enough that the tree is secure in the soil. There are stories about a tree rolling right out of the soil even a few years later. It looks like a "ball and socket" and can be from circling roots, too much burlap left around roots, or other reasons.
This turned into a longer answer than I commonly give, and I hope your tree survives. If you need to replant, measure the mature width of the tree you choose. The photo doesn't really show scale well, but I'm guessing this tree will be crowding the fence. The Oregon State Landscape Plants Page (link to this tree) gives the height of Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Compacta' (which isn't in the dwarf section here which surprised me). The width is only described as "broad conical" though I found other references saying 4'-15'.
Again, it's a great tree and I hope it keeps growing strong.
Assuming it was planted correctly, under-watering is a likely culprit. It is generally recommended in recent years to occasionally deeply water even established trees. (ODF reference link)
Recently planted trees need extra care for a recommended three years (link to EC 1438). This linked publication covers selecting and planting new trees, so is also useful if you need to replace this tree.
I should back up a bit: the cones are natural for this tree and something many gardeners consider an ornamental bonus. It could be that producing them when the tree is so small is a response to stress, but we don't know for sure.
The die back of oldest foliage is also natural. Each fall this will happen to some degree, known as "flagging". Your tree seems to have excessive loss, so you're right to consider changing it's care. Perhaps adequate watering next summer will generate new growth and next fall you won't be worrying. Be sure to reach in and test the soil moisture right at the root ball. One person in my study group uses moisture meters. Don't over-correct and drown the roots either. I usually use a trowel and my finger. A screw driver works too: where you hit resistance is the dry soil. It should be moist as deep as you can reach with the tool.
Lastly, one test for a newer established tree is to give it a little shove or tug. In two years the roots should be established enough that the tree is secure in the soil. There are stories about a tree rolling right out of the soil even a few years later. It looks like a "ball and socket" and can be from circling roots, too much burlap left around roots, or other reasons.
This turned into a longer answer than I commonly give, and I hope your tree survives. If you need to replant, measure the mature width of the tree you choose. The photo doesn't really show scale well, but I'm guessing this tree will be crowding the fence. The Oregon State Landscape Plants Page (link to this tree) gives the height of Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Compacta' (which isn't in the dwarf section here which surprised me). The width is only described as "broad conical" though I found other references saying 4'-15'.
Again, it's a great tree and I hope it keeps growing strong.
Many thanks for this wonderfully detailed response! So I'm pretty sure I just didn't water it enough this summer, which was its third year in the ground. I try to be water-wise, and am afraid sometimes I go overboard, trying to conserve water.
There was a ton of die-back after the heat dome, but it doesn't really seem like there was enough replacement growth. Combined with the loss this year, and the fact that it's really planted too close to the fence, I might just dig it up and try again. Sigh.
I'll wait and see what happens next year, will water more often.
Thanks again for your help, the Extension is The Best!
Nanette