Laboratory soil testing can be very useful if you wanted to determine what the soil acidity (pH) level is plus what the major nutrient levels currently are, but it generally isn't needed for decorative plantings unless you suspected an issue causing plants to struggle. The most common uses of soil testing are for preparing for lawn fertilization or liming and amending or fertilizing vegetable bed soil (and testing for lead contamination when growing edible plants). So, we agree with the nursery's advice that it isn't necessary in this situation, though is harmless to do if you're curious.

While horticulturists used to always recommend amending the soil when planting, we now know that this isn't always needed or even beneficial; it can depend on the situation. Planting without amending soil can be successful, and if a plant becomes stressed during establishment (not uncommon), it usually results from environmental conditions like soil moisture that isn't always a result of soil type around the roots. Soils high in clay that compact easily or too greatly can benefit from the addition of organic matter (compost), but this can be done either upon planting or afterwards (and gradually) by way of biodegradable mulch breaking-down into organic matter over time. Soil life then gently incorporates that into the soil for the benefit of roots.

Sun-loving plants prefer an exposure of direct sun for a minimum of 6-8 hours daily in summer, and shade-loving (shade-tolerant would be more accurate) plants prefer few hours of direct light, perhaps 3 or 4, and dappled or total shade the rest of the day. Giving a shade-adapted plant too much direct light can sometimes increase its stress and "burn" leaves or speed-up the rate at which it uses-up soil moisture. Some plants adapt well if given enough time, but others would not thrive unless moved into a site with a mix of sun and shade (maybe more like 50-50).

Anemone and Azaleas, for example, thrive in about half-shade half-sun (if not too many hours of midday hot sun) or a location receiving a bit more shade than sun; they are not generally grown in full sun or a mostly-sunny location. Sedum, Catmint and Hibiscus, on the other hand, thrive in full sun but may flop over more or not flower as well if shaded for part of the day. Basil and mint both prefer sun but will handle partial shade well. If the more shade-loving species in the group are planted closer to the shadow of the trees and the others more in the sun where the trees don't shade them much (if at all), that would be ideal.

Wisteria not flowering is probably not a result of poor vine support, though as a very vigorous and large-statured vine, these plants do need a very sturdy structure to climb regardless. The only species somewhat-native here (not technically local, but an eastern-U.S. native), Wisteria frutescens, is a little more well-behaved and reserved in growth than the very common Chinese and Japanese Wisteria species grown and found in natural areas throughout our state. These latter two are invasive and should not be cultivated if at all possible since they spread from seed into wild areas. Since you don't own the yard, we realize you might not be able to remove it without permission, but at least these vines tolerate lots of cutting back (as needed to restrict their growth) so you should be fine if you need to keep it confined to a small trellis or stake by pruning drastically every month or so. (Wisteria grows pretty fast.)

We do not recommend using any sort of insecticide, organic or otherwise, without having a specific pest identified first which is determined to be causing unacceptable amounts of damage. Many pests are merely a nuisance and their leaf damage is not serious for the plant, and many insecticide ingredients (even organic ones) can affect other harmless insects, including pollinators. We're happy to help ID a suspected pest if you are able to share photos; images of the damage alone are sometimes not enough to determine which insect caused it if you don't see one caught in the act, but they can still be helpful.

Roses, for example, tend to be chewed each year by a common insect called Roseslug Sawfly. Management could be done with certain insecticides but may be just as effective if the larvae are picked off by hand or blasted off the leaf undersides by a strong jet of water from a garden hose. Either way, roses might look a bit ragged from their chewing but they will be fine. Japanese Beetle adults, plus a few other beetle types, can also chew rose petals and foliage, but these too don't require pesticide intervention since their damage to the plant isn't serious. You can explore our rose diagnostic page for more information about typical rose ailments and their management, if you're curious.

Peonies are commonly afflicted with powdery mildew and leaf spot infections, but not usually insect damage; fungicides might help suppress new infections the following year while the foliage is still clean, but they are not necessary either, nor do they always work perfectly well.

Hibiscus blooms only last one day (maybe two) before fading and falling off, so while the plant as a whole has a long bloom period and keeps producing new buds for weeks at a time, the individual flowers don't last very long. Falling flowers could simply be ready to shed or might be indicative of plant stress. Perennial hibiscus like that type appreciate soil that stays moist (not necessarily wet or soggy, but they're a little flexible), so if they got too dry, that could definitely trigger some bud loss. The plant should recover if it's monitored for watering needs. (The linked page is focused on trees and shrubs but it works for perennials also.)

The pale spots on the Hibiscus leaves are minor damage and either caused by inconsequential physical damage or a relatively harmless leaf spot infection. Treatment is not needed, and when the leaves fall off this autumn, you can collect them (if they stay clumped around the plant's base) and dispose of them if you wanted to be cautious about removing a possible source of fungal spores for next year.

The anemone looks like it's just suffering from a bit of drought stress that burned the leaf edges and caused some curling/wilting, so that is not too serious as long as it can be monitored from now on as it establishes. It's hard to say just how much water needs to be applied every time watering is needed, but as a rough guideline, about a half-gallon or gallon watering can full is probably good to aim for so the soil around the roots and throughout the root ball is thoroughly moistened to several inches deep.

Shed lower leaves on mint is fine and probably not a problem; it's normal for older leaves (the lowest ones) on plants to fall off as new growth is produced, and if the plant is partially shaded, this can be exacerbated by insufficient light. The plant will adjust and be okay, but in that situation it's the reduced sunlight that isn't allowing the plant to retain all of its foliage (they cost the plant energy to keep alive, and with reduced energy from less sunlight, the oldest leaves are discarded by the plant so it can focus on maintaining the younger leaves).

Leaf damage is incapable of healing, so rose leaves affected by a pest earlier in the summer won't look improved even once that pest is gone. This is ok, because the undamaged portions of those leaves are still feeding the plant, and any new growth it produces will help cover the eyesore up. This late in the growing season, we would not expect much more new leaf growth on winter-hardy plants like rose shrubs because they are starting to put energy into preparing branches and buds for winter instead, but if new leaves do appear, that's fine also.

Rodents are a problem we have limited guidance for, but Baltimore City government does have rat control information or assistance (check with them about what might be available). Removing sources of food (securing compost bins if you put food scraps in them, for example) will help discourage them, and try to secure potential burrow/nesting behavior by blocking entrance to voids under decking and similar sites. Avoid use of any poison baits since these could also expose hawks, owls, dogs, and other animals to the poison. Dry ice might be useful in evicting rodents from a burrow (the carbon dioxide it gives off can repel or suffocate them without poison), but check with the city about the legality of using this and if they have any recommendations.

Ants outside of a home are not a problem and don't need treatment. Ants are great garden predators and hunt many plant pests, and their soil tunneling for nest construction helps aerate soil to the benefit of roots. Ants suspected of nesting in the home can be dealt with using bait stations and, if needed, a pest control professional.

Caterpillars are rarely serious plant pests; only a few species cause significant damage where intervention might be needed. Many are a very important source of nutrition for adult and baby birds. You can share pictures of particular caterpillars you find on plants, and the damage being caused, to help determine if they are serious enough to warrant being controlled, and how best to go about treating them so there is as little impact as possible on other wildlife.

Miri