Dogwood sapling leaves are yellow at tips - Ask Extension
Why are the tips of my dogwood sapling turning yellow? is there any way to correct this ? Thank you!
Knowledgebase
Dogwood sapling leaves are yellow at tips #844543
Asked August 07, 2023, 1:21 PM EDT
Why are the tips of my dogwood sapling turning yellow? is there any way to correct this ? Thank you!
Oakland County Michigan
Expert Response
We have been getting quite a bit of rain so I don't think the yellowing is from lack of water....
Hello,
There are several issues (or potential) issues that can be causing the tree symptoms. Last fall we experienced a drought, and if the new trees were not sufficiently watered (or accidentally over-watered), they could have suffered some root loss. This could explain some of the mild chlorosis in the upper leaves - the yellowing of the leaf tissue while the veins themselves remain greener. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the soil has a nutrient deficiency, but if the plant otherwise seems well-rooted, you could try applying a dose of fertilizer. A slow-release organic formulation intended for acid-loving plants would be best, as it will be gentle and last awhile. If you gently try rocking the trunk back and forth (a “wiggle” test, if you will), it should feel fairly firm and solidly anchored. Easily rocked trees, where you can see the soil surface by the trunk base buckling, are probably not yet rooted-in well. The presence of the tree ties could inhibit its rooting-in progress. While staking can be helpful in situations with steep slopes, high winds, or rambunctious children, it otherwise tends to be unnecessary. The risk in using stakes for too long (more than 6-12 months) or tying the tree too securely is that it does not experience enough wind-rocking to stimulate vigorous anchoring roots. The trunk should be able to sway in the wind a bit in any direction. Thickening of the trunk on your trees is a good sign, so at least some stabilization appears to be starting. If you have deer in the area, you can keep the protective cage, but it’s best to remove the interior ties now.
PLEASE get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Diagnostic Plant & Pest Lab - Please email all your digital image prior to bringing or sending physical samples. The image can be sent to <personal data hidden>.
MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!
Be prepared. The lab may ask for more images - THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).
Lab email: <personal data hidden>
Lab phone:<personal data hidden>
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
PLEASE READ BELOW ON PREPARING YOUR SAMPLE (if the lab needs a sample)
From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. They thank you for your patience and understanding.
Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf.
Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/
I hope this helps!
There are several issues (or potential) issues that can be causing the tree symptoms. Last fall we experienced a drought, and if the new trees were not sufficiently watered (or accidentally over-watered), they could have suffered some root loss. This could explain some of the mild chlorosis in the upper leaves - the yellowing of the leaf tissue while the veins themselves remain greener. This doesn’t necessarily mean that the soil has a nutrient deficiency, but if the plant otherwise seems well-rooted, you could try applying a dose of fertilizer. A slow-release organic formulation intended for acid-loving plants would be best, as it will be gentle and last awhile. If you gently try rocking the trunk back and forth (a “wiggle” test, if you will), it should feel fairly firm and solidly anchored. Easily rocked trees, where you can see the soil surface by the trunk base buckling, are probably not yet rooted-in well. The presence of the tree ties could inhibit its rooting-in progress. While staking can be helpful in situations with steep slopes, high winds, or rambunctious children, it otherwise tends to be unnecessary. The risk in using stakes for too long (more than 6-12 months) or tying the tree too securely is that it does not experience enough wind-rocking to stimulate vigorous anchoring roots. The trunk should be able to sway in the wind a bit in any direction. Thickening of the trunk on your trees is a good sign, so at least some stabilization appears to be starting. If you have deer in the area, you can keep the protective cage, but it’s best to remove the interior ties now.
PLEASE get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Diagnostic Plant & Pest Lab - Please email all your digital image prior to bringing or sending physical samples. The image can be sent to <personal data hidden>.
MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!
Be prepared. The lab may ask for more images - THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).
Lab email: <personal data hidden>
Lab phone:<personal data hidden>
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
PLEASE READ BELOW ON PREPARING YOUR SAMPLE (if the lab needs a sample)
From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. They thank you for your patience and understanding.
Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf.
Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/
I hope this helps!
Thanks so much for your expert advice! Fo you have a recommendation for a fertilizer (brand name) that would be good for this Dogwood? Thanks again!
Hello Again,
I cannot make recommendations for a fertilizer (brand name) that would be good for that Dogwood. It is the results of a soil test that determines what type of fertilizer you should get.
.
PLEASE READ ON:
Determining the need for fertilization
As a general rule of thumb, most landscape trees and shrubs can maintain acceptable growth and appearance without fertilization. If plant growth and color are not meeting, expectations and a homeowner suspects a nutrient problem, the potential deficiency should be diagnosed based on at least one – and preferably two or more – of the following criteria before applying corrective fertilization.
Soil testing is one criterion you should use. If you haven't had a soil test in three (3) years. You might want to get a soil test.
Details on how to get a soil test are at these links:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/dont_guess_soil_test_get_your_home_lawn_and_garden_soil_test_kit_today
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/soil_test_kit_self-mailer
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soil-testing-returns-through-msu-extension
Test results include soil phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, soil pH, and soil organic matter. If the test indicates nutrient levels are low, a recommendation for fertilization will be included in the results. Soil pH is especially important for trees that are sensitive to alkaline pH and prone to nutrient issues, such as pin oak, red maple, and many conifers. Soil pH levels higher than 6.5 can often induce manganese or iron chlorosis in these trees. Soil pH is also critical for acid-loving shrubs and trees, including azaleas, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, and dogwoods, which may require soil pH levels of 5.5 or lower.
The above information was taken from this: A homeowner’s guide to nutrition and fertilization of landscape trees and shrubs Bert Cregg, Ph.D., Michigan State University, Departments of Horticulture and Forestry is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Nutrition_and_fertilization_BertCreggfinal.pdf.
I cannot make recommendations for a fertilizer (brand name) that would be good for that Dogwood. It is the results of a soil test that determines what type of fertilizer you should get.
.
PLEASE READ ON:
Determining the need for fertilization
As a general rule of thumb, most landscape trees and shrubs can maintain acceptable growth and appearance without fertilization. If plant growth and color are not meeting, expectations and a homeowner suspects a nutrient problem, the potential deficiency should be diagnosed based on at least one – and preferably two or more – of the following criteria before applying corrective fertilization.
Soil testing is one criterion you should use. If you haven't had a soil test in three (3) years. You might want to get a soil test.
Details on how to get a soil test are at these links:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/dont_guess_soil_test_get_your_home_lawn_and_garden_soil_test_kit_today
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/soil_test_kit_self-mailer
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soil-testing-returns-through-msu-extension
Test results include soil phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, soil pH, and soil organic matter. If the test indicates nutrient levels are low, a recommendation for fertilization will be included in the results. Soil pH is especially important for trees that are sensitive to alkaline pH and prone to nutrient issues, such as pin oak, red maple, and many conifers. Soil pH levels higher than 6.5 can often induce manganese or iron chlorosis in these trees. Soil pH is also critical for acid-loving shrubs and trees, including azaleas, rhododendrons, hydrangeas, and dogwoods, which may require soil pH levels of 5.5 or lower.
The above information was taken from this: A homeowner’s guide to nutrition and fertilization of landscape trees and shrubs Bert Cregg, Ph.D., Michigan State University, Departments of Horticulture and Forestry is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/files/Nutrition_and_fertilization_BertCreggfinal.pdf.
Thanks again for your excellent detailed response! Question: What do I need to send pictures of? (Besides the soil sample)...thank you!
Hello Again,
You don't need to send any pictures when you do your soil test. Just follow the directions. The Soil Test Self-Mailer provides you with everything you need to make the process easy. Simply place one cup of your soil in the plastic bag provided, place the postage-paid envelope in a mailbox, and within two weeks via an email link, you will receive a custom fertilization program to meet the needs of your plants. For more information, go to https://homesoiltest.msu.edu.
Get the The Soil Test Self-Mailer by going to this link:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/soil_test_kit_self-mailer
You don't need to send any pictures when you do your soil test. Just follow the directions. The Soil Test Self-Mailer provides you with everything you need to make the process easy. Simply place one cup of your soil in the plastic bag provided, place the postage-paid envelope in a mailbox, and within two weeks via an email link, you will receive a custom fertilization program to meet the needs of your plants. For more information, go to https://homesoiltest.msu.edu.
Get the The Soil Test Self-Mailer by going to this link:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/soil_test_kit_self-mailer
You are welcome! Have a nice day!
