Pachysandra death - Ask Extension
We have had pachysandra for more than twenty years, in shady areas. Last year, I noticed 2 patches of dead pachysandra, about 3 feet in diameter. Noth...
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Pachysandra death #833834
Asked June 05, 2023, 12:43 PM EDT
We have had pachysandra for more than twenty years, in shady areas. Last year, I noticed 2 patches of dead pachysandra, about 3 feet in diameter. Nothing has changed. The areas grew to abot 7 feet across and the border to the dead area keeps growing larger. Pachysandra plants in the test of the yard are doing well. As you can see in the photos, small rhododendrons that I planted in the middle of the patches last year have also died. I have tried to search online without success. Can you identify the problem and recommend remedies? I can send more pictures. Thank you
Montgomery County Maryland
Expert Response
The symptoms pictured and described suggest this is Volutella, a fairly common fungal infection that Pachysandra is vulnerable to. It's hard to say why it seemed to appear suddenly last year, though maybe it was present to a low degree all along but then had an outbreak. Plant diseases tend to be very weather-dependent (both with regards to how spores spread and also how much underlying stress the plants are experiencing, predisposing them to infection) so maybe the conditions aligned to increase the planting's susceptibility.
In either case, management tips are given on the linked page. Essentially, sanitation (removing infected undergrowth and improving air circulation through the plants to keep foliage drier to reduce re-infection) is the most practical approach, especially since fungicides need to be applied preventatively, repeatedly, and won't always work reliably well while also potentially having harmful impacts on other organisms. Regrowth afterwards, if the Pachysandra roots are otherwise healthy, should be good.
Rhododendron can be fickle plants to get to thrive in some sites and the loss of a few in this or even other areas isn't necessarily tied to disease. They prefer soil that is evenly moist (that is, not dry for too long during drought) but also very well-drained (can't stay too wet), and also need acidic soil conditions to thrive. Several fungal ailments can cause dieback of either roots or stems and they can be hard to diagnose once advanced. Unfortunately we can't see enough detail in the photo that might be showing the Rhododendron that you mentioned since the file size is quite small. Our rhododendron diagnostic page might provide some insights as to likely causes if any of its prior symptoms appear to match.
Most of Maryland has been abnormally dry to-date this year and many garden plants should be periodically checked for watering needs at this point to reduce their stress. Given that the Pachysandra are probably sharing their root area with a mature tree (since that they prefer shade), this becomes even more important to monitor to reduce their vulnerability to future problems and to enable their capacity for regrowth after trimming. Feel the soil about six inches deep and water thoroughly if the soil is becoming somewhat dry to the touch at that depth; if damp when checked, the plants probably have enough water so far without intervention.
Miri
In either case, management tips are given on the linked page. Essentially, sanitation (removing infected undergrowth and improving air circulation through the plants to keep foliage drier to reduce re-infection) is the most practical approach, especially since fungicides need to be applied preventatively, repeatedly, and won't always work reliably well while also potentially having harmful impacts on other organisms. Regrowth afterwards, if the Pachysandra roots are otherwise healthy, should be good.
Rhododendron can be fickle plants to get to thrive in some sites and the loss of a few in this or even other areas isn't necessarily tied to disease. They prefer soil that is evenly moist (that is, not dry for too long during drought) but also very well-drained (can't stay too wet), and also need acidic soil conditions to thrive. Several fungal ailments can cause dieback of either roots or stems and they can be hard to diagnose once advanced. Unfortunately we can't see enough detail in the photo that might be showing the Rhododendron that you mentioned since the file size is quite small. Our rhododendron diagnostic page might provide some insights as to likely causes if any of its prior symptoms appear to match.
Most of Maryland has been abnormally dry to-date this year and many garden plants should be periodically checked for watering needs at this point to reduce their stress. Given that the Pachysandra are probably sharing their root area with a mature tree (since that they prefer shade), this becomes even more important to monitor to reduce their vulnerability to future problems and to enable their capacity for regrowth after trimming. Feel the soil about six inches deep and water thoroughly if the soil is becoming somewhat dry to the touch at that depth; if damp when checked, the plants probably have enough water so far without intervention.
Miri
What fungicide would you recommend? Thank you for your analysis.
We have also planted a lot of new ferns and our landscaping company put in a swail with rocks to direct water drainage. I am concerned that a beech tree that is surrounded 1/3 way by the swail. I did not realize that would happen when we saw the plans originally. What should I do to help the tree as I am worried that it could die in the long run? Is there a company we can trust to help the tree?
I hope that my phone number is not available online, that was a mistake. sincerely Lisa
Hi Lisa,
We don't recommend a fungicide in this instance, not only because they can't cure existing infections but also because they tend not to be very effective in this scenario. While the fresh regrowth of a renovated Pachysandra planting might be protected somewhat by a broad-spectrum fungicide, we have not found a particular active ingredient to be notably successful and re-treatment every year (and likely several times each year) would probably be needed and would be impractical.
The best approach for both immediate and longer-term suppression of Volutella is to cut down the current Pachysandra growth (both to remove infected foliage and to make debris removal easier), rake- or blow-out all fallen foliage debris to improve airflow around the crowns (where growth emerges from the root system), and then to let the planting regrow. Any mass planting of a single-species groundcover bears greater risk of a disease or pest organism reaching outbreak levels because there are fewer natural checks and balances to its spread. (This is one reason we recommend that plantings use a diverse mix of species where possible, and it keeps the planting as a whole more resilient and lower-maintenance.)
With regards to the question about Beech health, these trees are notoriously sensitive to root disturbance, so since this is coming after the fact in terms of landscaping changes, then the only recourse is to monitor the tree for watering needs (current drought aside) so it's stress is minimized. There are no preventative fungicides or insecticides warranted in this situation. Consultations about any concerning symptoms should involve a certified arborist. They can't cure every ailment or reverse existing damage, but they can help make a diagnosis by looking at a variety of factors. We don't keep track of company services nor make recommendations for particular businesses, but a trained arborist can look for indications of tree stress and damage and, in a more limited fashion, treat some conditions if they are not too advanced. Some arborists are employed by tree-care companies (though not all staff in those companies have this level of training/certification) but others consult independently if you are worried about a bias towards recommending unnecessary or short-term treatments or services.
If you had included it in the body of your question submission text (the contact info. in the rest of the submission form is never published) then your phone number was removed manually when we viewed the original question in order to protect your privacy.
Miri
We don't recommend a fungicide in this instance, not only because they can't cure existing infections but also because they tend not to be very effective in this scenario. While the fresh regrowth of a renovated Pachysandra planting might be protected somewhat by a broad-spectrum fungicide, we have not found a particular active ingredient to be notably successful and re-treatment every year (and likely several times each year) would probably be needed and would be impractical.
The best approach for both immediate and longer-term suppression of Volutella is to cut down the current Pachysandra growth (both to remove infected foliage and to make debris removal easier), rake- or blow-out all fallen foliage debris to improve airflow around the crowns (where growth emerges from the root system), and then to let the planting regrow. Any mass planting of a single-species groundcover bears greater risk of a disease or pest organism reaching outbreak levels because there are fewer natural checks and balances to its spread. (This is one reason we recommend that plantings use a diverse mix of species where possible, and it keeps the planting as a whole more resilient and lower-maintenance.)
With regards to the question about Beech health, these trees are notoriously sensitive to root disturbance, so since this is coming after the fact in terms of landscaping changes, then the only recourse is to monitor the tree for watering needs (current drought aside) so it's stress is minimized. There are no preventative fungicides or insecticides warranted in this situation. Consultations about any concerning symptoms should involve a certified arborist. They can't cure every ailment or reverse existing damage, but they can help make a diagnosis by looking at a variety of factors. We don't keep track of company services nor make recommendations for particular businesses, but a trained arborist can look for indications of tree stress and damage and, in a more limited fashion, treat some conditions if they are not too advanced. Some arborists are employed by tree-care companies (though not all staff in those companies have this level of training/certification) but others consult independently if you are worried about a bias towards recommending unnecessary or short-term treatments or services.
If you had included it in the body of your question submission text (the contact info. in the rest of the submission form is never published) then your phone number was removed manually when we viewed the original question in order to protect your privacy.
Miri
