Blueberry, branches, dying, blueberry shriveled - Ask Extension
We have three blueberry plants. One is loaded, one is empty, and one had a lot of berries until they started shriveling. It also looks like some of th...
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Blueberry, branches, dying, blueberry shriveled #832229
Asked May 26, 2023, 4:42 PM EDT
We have three blueberry plants. One is loaded, one is empty, and one had a lot of berries until they started shriveling. It also looks like some of the branches died. Other than that, the plant looks very healthy. Any ideas?
Clackamas County Oregon
Expert Response
Thank you for your question, Tarina. Unfortunately, I don't have any information about the soil pH, your pruning habits, nor the amount of nutrients available to your plants. I suggest that you read the following blueberry guide to compare accurate testing and care methods to yours, and see what you need to change. https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/ec1304.pdf
I hope this helps. Good luck!
I hope this helps. Good luck!
Thank you for your swift reply about my blueberries. I prune them following the OSU master gardener videos available online. They get fertilizer (16 – 16– 16) twice a year – once in February, and once in September. I do not know the pH of my soil, as they have a weed barrier over the top with drip irrigation underneath. But we do put garden mulch over the top of the weed barrier, as well as shavings.
Thanks in advance,
I am also including more photos of some spots they have on their branches. Any ideas about these as well? And do I need to test the pH of the soil?
Thanks in advance,
Tarina Matthys
Sent from my iPhone - typos compliments of autocomplete.
On May 26, 2023, at 3:40 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Thank you. You absolutely must get the pH tested. Blueberries are very sensitive to soil acidity, and cannot absorb nutrients if it is outside of the necessary range. This article has a list of testing labs: https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/em8677/html
Tell them you have a blueberry crop, and they will recommend soil amendments.
Get rid of the weed barrier. This explains why: https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/landscape-fabric.pdf
There are 24 stem, root, leaf and flower problems with this species, (https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-and-disease-descriptions?title=blueberry) and some must be examined in a lab to diagnose the problem. Before incurring that cost, I suggest that you get the pH/nutrient test, and let us know what it says so we can proceed. Thanks!
Tell them you have a blueberry crop, and they will recommend soil amendments.
Get rid of the weed barrier. This explains why: https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/landscape-fabric.pdf
There are 24 stem, root, leaf and flower problems with this species, (https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-and-disease-descriptions?title=blueberry) and some must be examined in a lab to diagnose the problem. Before incurring that cost, I suggest that you get the pH/nutrient test, and let us know what it says so we can proceed. Thanks!
Tarina: in trying to compare the stem lesions with known pathogens, I am afraid that this plant has one of two fungi described here: https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/blueberry-vaccinium-corymbosum-fusicoccum-canker-godronia-canker and https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/blueberry-vaccinium-corymbosum-botrytis-blight
You should immediately remove and destroy the branches with these cankers. Do not compost! The second fungus is controlled by the Bonide Captan fungicide, but will not be effective until next year prebloom through the end of bloom. I hope this works!
You should immediately remove and destroy the branches with these cankers. Do not compost! The second fungus is controlled by the Bonide Captan fungicide, but will not be effective until next year prebloom through the end of bloom. I hope this works!
