Hello,
In general, leafless Japanese maples are stressed trees, and you must track down the cause. Your hunch about the blizzard this winter killing the leaf buds may be the cause. Colder than average winter temperatures or bitterly cold winter winds can cause dieback and winter burn. If this is the case, then the Japanese maple might not leaf out any more than it already is.
Since the bark, stems, and roots of Japanese maples are thin and delicate, the trees don’t take stress very well. Some other stressors include Swings in moisture and temperature, winter freeze and thaw cycles, winter sunburn on the trunk, the root flare being buried by soil or bark mulch, fertilizer burn,
salt damage, overstimulation by late fertilizing or pruning (this keeps the tree from hardening off before winter), too much soil or mulch on top of the roots (which need oxygen), and leaf scorch during hot weather.

Regardless of what the stressors(s) were, it would help if you did the following:
1) Do a scratch test on the affected branches. Scratch the branches with your fingernail and look for
green tissue. If you see it, the branches are still viable. If you do not see green tissue, then prune the dead branches. When trimming back, prune to a live bud or a branch union.
2) Check to see what the leaf buds look like. If the buds do not seem to be processing, you’ll have to consider the worst possibility: verticillium wilt. The nutrients that leaves produce during the summer are stored in the roots. In spring, the nutrients rise into the tree via sap. If your tree has a
problem getting the nutrients back up to the branches. The problem could be verticillium wilt, an infection in the xylem layer that blocks sap.

Prune out a branch to see if verticillium wilt is the cause of your Japanese maples not leafing out. If you see a ring of dark on a cross-section of the branch, it is likely this fungal disease. Unfortunately, you cannot save a tree with verticillium. This is a worst-case scenario. The only way to tell if this is the
problem is to look at the tissue on dead branches. Here’s an article from Penn State about Vertillium
Wilt of Woody Ornamentals. https://extension.psu.edu/verticillium-wilt-of-woody-ornamentals
If the two ideas above indicate that the tree is still alive, consider water stress. These trees need water not just in summer but also in dry springs and falls.

Another reason for leaves not growing on Japanese maples can be root related—girdled roots can cause leafless Japanese maples. Your tree’s best chance is for you to cut some of the roots, then be sure it gets enough water. Scratch around the bottom of the tree and see if any roots are wrapping around it. You can remove them with a strong pair of pruners or a hammer and chisel if they are small. If they are large, you must consult a licensed arborist for assistance.

At this point, prune dead wood, make sure mulch is no thicker than several inches, and keep away from the base of the trunk. and keep the tree well-watered during dry periods. There is not much else you can do.

You can also fertilize now if you haven’t done so already; once you fertilize (please, according to the package directions), water gently and deeply once a week, depending on rainfall.

I would not yet give up on this tree. In addition to the harsh winter, we’ve had a generally cool spring. It’s possible that the tree just needs time to wake up,

 I hope this information helps.