You might be able to root cuttings from these stems, though we don't have specific information about the exact timing to try. Some trees and shrubs root best on semi-hardwood (the young stems started to harden-off later in summer, but not as stiff as older wood) while others root best on softwood (the current season's growth before it gets too woody). You may have to experiment and see which works best, though even when the success rate is high, the rooting process can still take weeks or even months. Dipping the cuttings in rooting hormone sometimes ensures greater success, not only because of the hormone stimulant but because such products tend to contain a fungicide to discourage rot of the cut stem end in the meantime.

Cuttings need to be shaded, kept moist and humid but with good air circulation, and may need to have at least half of their leaves removed so they don't desiccate the cutting (by continuing to evaporate moisture) before it can rehydrate itself with roots. You'll need at least two nodes per cutting; nodes are the joints on the stem where leaves attach, as this is where dormant buds for roots and/or new leaves will be found. One node is put into the potting mix (with or without having first been dipped in rooting hormone powder or gel) and the other is above-ground so it can eventually grow more leaves and stems.

Other Extension pages online have general cutting propagation steps and tips that might be useful, such as this page from NC State: Plant Propagation by Stem Cuttings.

Miri