Scale on Australian Umbrella Tree - Ask Extension
Hello MSU! This plant was donated to the Library 4years ago. This year there is some yellowing of the leaves, mild stickiness near the center vein, ...
Knowledgebase
Scale on Australian Umbrella Tree #822491
Asked March 15, 2023, 11:40 AM EDT
Hello MSU! This plant was donated to the Library 4years ago. This year there is some yellowing of the leaves, mild stickiness near the center vein, and some brown blotches that look like scale on the veins under the leaf. There are other plants in the room, none closer than 6 feet.
Mackinac County Michigan
Expert Response
Hello,
BASED ON WHAT I SEE IN YOUR IMAGES
From the article: SCHEFFLERA (UMBRELLA PLANT) - Clemson University at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/schefflera-2/
Problems
In the home, plant diseases are very rarely a problem. Too much or too little water, plus insects and mites, are the main problems. Mealybugs, scale insects, and mites are common pests of scheffleras. Root rot usually results from a soil mix that does not drain quickly or from overly frequent watering. Yellowing of leaves is because of OVERWATERING - Dead areas form on leaves several days after exposure to excessive cold. Maintain temperatures above 50 °F. Do not place plants near air conditioning vents. Low light can cause leaf yellowing with spindly, weak stems. Leaf drop can be caused by excessive watering, low humidity, or by chilling.
For more information, see, HGIC 2252 Common Houseplant Insects & Related Pests at this link:
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/
Non-Chemical Control
The first step in control is to isolate any plant suspected of being infested with a pest. Then, keep the plant separate from other houseplants until the pest is completely controlled. This process may take several weeks or more. Before looking for a chemical solution to a pest problem in houseplants, several effective control alternatives should be considered. However, do not expect the problem to be solved with one application. Some of these alternatives require persistence on the part of the indoor gardener, but they can give good control. If only an isolated portion of the plant is infested, as occurs with leafminers, remove and destroy the infested parts. If the roots are infested, take a cutting and start a new plant. Be sure to start with a clean pot and sterile potting soil. Early infestations can often be removed by handpicking. Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to wipe off insects such as aphids and mealybugs. Scale insects may need to be scraped off with a fingernail. Spraying a sturdy plant with water will remove many pests. Be sure to spray all plant surfaces. Repeated water sprays help control spider mites. Spraying the plant with insecticidal soap can often eliminate a pest infestation in its early stages. Insecticidal soaps are contact insecticides and are only effective when they make direct contact with insects. Once the soap solution dries, it has no effect on pests. Insecticidal soaps are most effective against soft-bodied insects and related pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, immature scales (crawlers), thrips, whiteflies, and spider mites. Since pests may be hidden or in the egg stage, eliminating them often takes more than one treatment. See Table 1 for examples of products and additional comments about insecticidal soap sprays. If the plant is severely damaged and not valuable, the best and simplest solution may be to discard the plant and its soil and start with a new plant. Table 1 is at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/
Chemical Control
If non-chemical control methods have failed and the plant is valuable, a stronger pesticide may be necessary. Before choosing a pesticide, it is important to identify the pest accurately. In general, a single pesticide will not kill all kinds of pests. Some pesticides are only effective against certain pests or certain life stages of particular pests. In addition, it is important to understand that more than one application of a pesticide is often necessary for control. When possible, alternate the pesticide used from one application to the next, as some pests develop resistance quickly.
Houseplant insect sprays can be obtained at garden centers and farm supply stores. Only a few pesticides are labeled for use indoors on houseplants. Before using a pesticide indoors, be sure that the label specifies that use. You may want to treat your plant outdoors and then bring it inside after the pesticide has dried completely. If you take plants outdoors to treat, make sure that weather conditions are mild. Spraying insecticides outdoors prevents over-spray from contacting furniture, drapes, or carpet. Typically, a pesticide label will include both a list of plants for which the pesticide is recommended, as well as a list of plants that are known to be sensitive to the pesticide. Symptoms of pesticide injury on plants include distortion of leaves and buds, yellowing of leaves, spotting of leaves or flowers, burn along the leaf edges, and total burn. When damage occurs, it often becomes visible within 5 to 10 days, sometimes sooner. In general, the damage does not kill the plant.
As always, before purchasing and using any pesticide, be sure to read all label directions and precautions and then follow them carefully.
Information on Scales
Scales: Several species of scales are pests on houseplants. Scale insects can be divided into two groups: armored scales and soft scales. An armored scale secretes a waxy covering that is not an integral part of its body. The covering can be scraped off to locate the insect living beneath it. In contrast, the waxy covering that a soft scale secretes is an integral part of its body. Scales are unusual insects in appearance. Adults are small and immobile, with no visible legs. Scales vary in appearance depending on age, sex, and species. Some are flat and appear as fish scales stuck to a plant. Others look like waxy, colored masses. They range in size from 1/16– to ½-inch in diameter. They are usually found on stems and the undersides of leaves but may be found on upper surfaces as well. Scales feed by sucking plant sap. Their immature forms, called crawlers, are mobile, and they also feed by sucking plant sap. Like mealybugs, the soft-scale insects excrete honeydew (which results in black sooty mold problems on foliage and stems). Armored scales do not excrete honeydew.
Control: Early infestations of scales can be removed by scraping with a fingernail. Adult scales are relatively protected from insecticides by their waxy covering. However, for houseplants outdoors, sprays with products containing neem oil extract or canola oil help control adult-scale insects by smothering. Their crawlers are susceptible to many insecticides, such as insecticidal soap, neem oil extract, canola oil, pyrethrins, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, or lambda-cyhalothrin. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See the footnote in Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Table 1 is at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/
I believe there are other issues besides overwatering and scales - there is a possibility of root rot, too - For this reason, I would highly recommend that you get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics Lab on the MSU campus. They have houseplant experts there that can give their opinion. Please email your digital image prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>.
MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!
They should able to diagnose and ID your problem without seeing a sample. That is why the more images, the better
THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).
PLEASE READ BELOW TO PREPARE YOUR SAMPLE
From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. Due to the current COVID-19 circumstances, please allow additional processing time. They thank you for your patience and understanding.
Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf
Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/
Ship/Deliver Samples Directly at:
MSU Plant & Pest Diagnostics
578 Wilson Road, CIPS 107
East Lansing, MI 48824
MSU Plant & Pest Diagnostics Contact information is:
Lab email: <personal data hidden>
Lab phone:<personal data hidden>
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Hope this helps!!
BASED ON WHAT I SEE IN YOUR IMAGES
From the article: SCHEFFLERA (UMBRELLA PLANT) - Clemson University at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/schefflera-2/
Problems
In the home, plant diseases are very rarely a problem. Too much or too little water, plus insects and mites, are the main problems. Mealybugs, scale insects, and mites are common pests of scheffleras. Root rot usually results from a soil mix that does not drain quickly or from overly frequent watering. Yellowing of leaves is because of OVERWATERING - Dead areas form on leaves several days after exposure to excessive cold. Maintain temperatures above 50 °F. Do not place plants near air conditioning vents. Low light can cause leaf yellowing with spindly, weak stems. Leaf drop can be caused by excessive watering, low humidity, or by chilling.
For more information, see, HGIC 2252 Common Houseplant Insects & Related Pests at this link:
https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/
Non-Chemical Control
The first step in control is to isolate any plant suspected of being infested with a pest. Then, keep the plant separate from other houseplants until the pest is completely controlled. This process may take several weeks or more. Before looking for a chemical solution to a pest problem in houseplants, several effective control alternatives should be considered. However, do not expect the problem to be solved with one application. Some of these alternatives require persistence on the part of the indoor gardener, but they can give good control. If only an isolated portion of the plant is infested, as occurs with leafminers, remove and destroy the infested parts. If the roots are infested, take a cutting and start a new plant. Be sure to start with a clean pot and sterile potting soil. Early infestations can often be removed by handpicking. Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to wipe off insects such as aphids and mealybugs. Scale insects may need to be scraped off with a fingernail. Spraying a sturdy plant with water will remove many pests. Be sure to spray all plant surfaces. Repeated water sprays help control spider mites. Spraying the plant with insecticidal soap can often eliminate a pest infestation in its early stages. Insecticidal soaps are contact insecticides and are only effective when they make direct contact with insects. Once the soap solution dries, it has no effect on pests. Insecticidal soaps are most effective against soft-bodied insects and related pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, immature scales (crawlers), thrips, whiteflies, and spider mites. Since pests may be hidden or in the egg stage, eliminating them often takes more than one treatment. See Table 1 for examples of products and additional comments about insecticidal soap sprays. If the plant is severely damaged and not valuable, the best and simplest solution may be to discard the plant and its soil and start with a new plant. Table 1 is at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/
Chemical Control
If non-chemical control methods have failed and the plant is valuable, a stronger pesticide may be necessary. Before choosing a pesticide, it is important to identify the pest accurately. In general, a single pesticide will not kill all kinds of pests. Some pesticides are only effective against certain pests or certain life stages of particular pests. In addition, it is important to understand that more than one application of a pesticide is often necessary for control. When possible, alternate the pesticide used from one application to the next, as some pests develop resistance quickly.
Houseplant insect sprays can be obtained at garden centers and farm supply stores. Only a few pesticides are labeled for use indoors on houseplants. Before using a pesticide indoors, be sure that the label specifies that use. You may want to treat your plant outdoors and then bring it inside after the pesticide has dried completely. If you take plants outdoors to treat, make sure that weather conditions are mild. Spraying insecticides outdoors prevents over-spray from contacting furniture, drapes, or carpet. Typically, a pesticide label will include both a list of plants for which the pesticide is recommended, as well as a list of plants that are known to be sensitive to the pesticide. Symptoms of pesticide injury on plants include distortion of leaves and buds, yellowing of leaves, spotting of leaves or flowers, burn along the leaf edges, and total burn. When damage occurs, it often becomes visible within 5 to 10 days, sometimes sooner. In general, the damage does not kill the plant.
As always, before purchasing and using any pesticide, be sure to read all label directions and precautions and then follow them carefully.
Information on Scales
Scales: Several species of scales are pests on houseplants. Scale insects can be divided into two groups: armored scales and soft scales. An armored scale secretes a waxy covering that is not an integral part of its body. The covering can be scraped off to locate the insect living beneath it. In contrast, the waxy covering that a soft scale secretes is an integral part of its body. Scales are unusual insects in appearance. Adults are small and immobile, with no visible legs. Scales vary in appearance depending on age, sex, and species. Some are flat and appear as fish scales stuck to a plant. Others look like waxy, colored masses. They range in size from 1/16– to ½-inch in diameter. They are usually found on stems and the undersides of leaves but may be found on upper surfaces as well. Scales feed by sucking plant sap. Their immature forms, called crawlers, are mobile, and they also feed by sucking plant sap. Like mealybugs, the soft-scale insects excrete honeydew (which results in black sooty mold problems on foliage and stems). Armored scales do not excrete honeydew.
Control: Early infestations of scales can be removed by scraping with a fingernail. Adult scales are relatively protected from insecticides by their waxy covering. However, for houseplants outdoors, sprays with products containing neem oil extract or canola oil help control adult-scale insects by smothering. Their crawlers are susceptible to many insecticides, such as insecticidal soap, neem oil extract, canola oil, pyrethrins, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, or lambda-cyhalothrin. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See the footnote in Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Table 1 is at this link: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/common-houseplant-insects-related-pests/
I believe there are other issues besides overwatering and scales - there is a possibility of root rot, too - For this reason, I would highly recommend that you get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics Lab on the MSU campus. They have houseplant experts there that can give their opinion. Please email your digital image prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>.
MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!
They should able to diagnose and ID your problem without seeing a sample. That is why the more images, the better
THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).
PLEASE READ BELOW TO PREPARE YOUR SAMPLE
From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. Due to the current COVID-19 circumstances, please allow additional processing time. They thank you for your patience and understanding.
Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf
Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/
Ship/Deliver Samples Directly at:
MSU Plant & Pest Diagnostics
578 Wilson Road, CIPS 107
East Lansing, MI 48824
MSU Plant & Pest Diagnostics Contact information is:
Lab email: <personal data hidden>
Lab phone:<personal data hidden>
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
Hope this helps!!
