Hello!

You have a lovely rhododendron plant!  

I checked the American Rhododendron Society, https://www.rhododendron.org/v34n3p125.htm, for pruning details and this is what they said.

It is best to prune in early spring but you can prune anytime except in freezing weather conditions as we have now.

The main goal for most people is to remove dead, leggy branches and to improve flowering and shape.  As with most flowering shrubs pruning after the plant blooms is standard practice but you can at other times in order to improve the plant vigor and quality of the flowers.  Avoid pruning in late summer which will make plant susceptible to aphid injury.

To start follow these suggestions from the American Rhododendron Society site.

How to start. A good way to start to prune a rhododendron is to crawl under it, look up, and decide what structural changes are needed. If the plant has been long-neglected, it likely will be necessary first to cut out a tangle of dead branches. Then remove cross branches and weak wood. Remove excess branches to give remaining ones room to grow. Except when layering a plant, remove drooping branches that scrape the ground and provide handy stepladders for weevils to climb and feed upon the leaves. Remove spindly shoots that sometimes develop along the bole. Remove sprouts from under-stock on grafted plants. These sprouts spring up from the base of a plant and produce flowers of a different color, often lavender. Fortunately modern hybrids are mostly grown on their own roots, and so remain true to color. In removing hardened wood, make clean cuts, prune flush with the bole or main branches; do not leave stubs. Thinning the small outer branches is the final step in the pruning process.

Pruning for compactness. The compact, profusely budded rhododendrons of the nursery trade usually are the objective of commercial growers and landscapers. These plants are produced by good cultural methods, including de-budding and summer pruning of current growth to induce multiple branching and abundant flowers. In the home garden, the day ultimately comes when the branches become too numerous and need to be thinned to restore high quality foliage and bloom. When this occurs, insect damaged, sun-scorched, winter-injured, and scraggly foliage and branches should be among the first to be removed. Before planting a rhododendron, keep in mind that it is best to select one that will not outgrow the allotted space. A tall-growing variety just isn't suitable in front of a picture window. No amount of pruning will make it fit there comfortably and attractively.

Pruning to a single trunk. In some kinds of landscaping, plants are pruned high and trained to a single trunk or a few main stems. This treatment reveals the structure of the plant and texture of the bark, thus improving the year-around interest and beauty of a planting. An arched canopy over a woodland-type pathway can be achieved by high pruning of adjoining plants. The openness of a high-pruned plant facilitates the placement of ladders for deadheading and grooming the top, and provides ready access for watering, fertilizing, and mulching. If a single-trunk plant is the objective from the beginning, heading back can be delayed to encourage height growth. Also, while a plant is young and flexible, its trunk can be shaped for character by bending. If a plant has branched very low or has multiple stems, it will be necessary to cut away some lower branches and all except one or a few of the stems to achieve the desired tree-like effect. The 'Loderi' and 'Naomi' hybrids and many other large varieties respond well to the single trunk treatment. Bushy varieties do not; for example, 'CIS,' 'Bric-a- brac,' R. racemosum, R. williamsianum, and others.

Pruning for special effects. Sometimes it is desirable to prune a group of rhododendrons so that the foliage on one side is allowed to cascade nearly to the ground and that on the other side is pruned high to reveal the beauty of the trunk and large branches. Rhododendrons pruned in this way exhibit an unbroken bank of foliage or bloom when viewed from one side and a wooded-dell effect from the other. The exposed trunks should face the north or east, or be protected from the sun by buildings or other plants.

In general the profile of rhododendron plants is regular. Individually they are difficult subjects to train for asymmetrical or tiered effects. These landscape effects can best be achieved by grouping rhododendrons of different sizes and textures, or by inter planting them with suitable companion plants. However, some azaleas, such as R. calendulaceum, are exceptions to the rule in that they respond beautifully to pruning for irregular effects.

Pruning to rejuvenate. Rhododendrons that have outgrown their site or have become tall, ungainly, and sparse of bloom can be rejuvenated by judicious pruning, preferably in early spring. Don't attempt to do it all at once. The plant likely will survive one-shot surgery, even make a strong recovery, but it is no way to treat an old friend. It is better to spread the rehabilitation over 2 or 3 years. Each year cut back some of the heavy branches to latent buds. Let the light in to encourage new shoots to form. Plants that have deteriorated in the top should be cut back and rejuvenated with new growth originating low on the bole. Prune with the dual objective of retaining the mature structure of the rhododendron and of improving its vigor and capacity to bloom.

Pruning to salvage. When catastrophe strikes and a large plant is broken or otherwise severly injured, don't despair. It may be salvaged. In the wild our native rhododendron, R. macrophyllum, often is killed back to the ground by fire, only to sprout again from the root crown and in a few years regain full vigor. Cultivated rhododendrons that have to be cut back to a stump likewise frequently recover.

Pruning to facilitate moving. Sometimes large, long-established rhododendrons have to be moved. This is a sizeable but relatively simple job. For best results, it should be done in the fall or in early spring before new growth begins. The roots are cut back (pruned) with a sharp shovel, leaving a wide but shallow pad of roots and soil. Hauled or skidded to its new location, the plant should be set high in loose, well mulched soil. To ease the shock of moving, some foliage should be pruned to compensate for the loss of roots. In part this is accomplished by cutting off lower branches that hamper the moving and in part by pruning unneeded upper branches. It is a good opportunity to shape a neglected plant.