Weeping cherry tree bark issue - Ask Extension
This 1-2 year old tree is planted in full sun. Recently this tree has 2 small "openings." The upper opening oozes a small amount of colored ...
Knowledgebase
Weeping cherry tree bark issue #807238
Asked August 20, 2022, 7:38 PM EDT
This 1-2 year old tree is planted in full sun. Recently this tree has 2 small "openings." The upper opening oozes a small amount of colored liquid. Otherwise the tree appears to be thriving.
I have noticed in this complex much older established weeping cherry trees with wider longer such openings.
Is this typical for cherry trees? Should the opening be covered?
Thank you very much.
Sandy Kondos
Oakland County Michigan
Expert Response
Hello Sandra
Based on what I see in your images:
Sunscald, especially in the winter, can cause bark injury to thin-barked or young trees. Although an exact split may not be seen immediately, the outer layer of bark will peel away from the affected area in the summer following the winter damage. Sunscald injuries to tree limbs can be minimized by avoiding heavy pruning of trees with dense canopies. Gradual limb thinning over years is preferable, particularly on thin-barked trees. Newly planted trees may be protected from sunscald by wrapping main trunks with tree wrap. As mentioned before, certain trees are more susceptible to splits than others. The trees on which we receive the most inquiries concerning splits are Ornamental cherry trees. Any newly-planted tree, especially of a thin-barked species, is a candidate for bark-splitting if it is not cared for properly. Splits can occur on the trunk of the tree as well as on branches. Trees that are most susceptible to this type of injury are those which are thin-barked, such as certain fruit trees. Newly-planted trees or young trees are more prone to bark-splitting. Bark splits are not likely to be fatal to trees, although they will, in some cases, allow entry of disease organisms that can cause decay. A tree should be able to close most splits through proper treatment to encourage the natural callusing process. Based on the looks of this split, I would have this treated by an arborist
There is no single reason for bark splitting on trees. During late winter and early spring, severe cold followed by rapid thawing can result in splits referred to as "frost cracks". These frost cracks can actually start from a wound inflicted earlier in the tree's development. Sometimes the crack may remain in the internal wood, but frosts can cause the crack to expand and split the bark. Excessively late growth in the fall stimulated by warm temperatures, high humidity, and high nitrogen levels can increase susceptibility of trees to frost cracking. Fluctuating growth conditions may also cause splitting of bark. Dry weather (which slows growth) followed by wet or ideal growth conditions may cause an excessive or vigorous amount of growth leading to splits in the bark.
Since this crack in the trunk is close to the ground another cause is injury. Has someone used a weed whacker a little too close to the trunk recently? If the tree looks otherwise healthy, but it’s leaking sap from a single fresh looking wound, it’s probably just been nicked by something metal. There’s nothing much you can do but wait for it to heal.
If the sap oozing from cherry trees is free of sawdust and more than a foot above the ground, you're probably looking at canker disease. There are a few types of canker disease that cause sap oozing from cherry trees, and all of them result in sunken, dead material (or cankers) around the ooze
Both larvae and adult borers use the weeping cherry tree's bark as a successful hiding place and feeding area. As they feed and move about the bark, sap leaks from the orifices. It is typically a mixture of sap and frass, or insect feces, that drips down the tree, about 12 inches above the soil line.
I recommend that you get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics Lab on the MSU campus Please e-mail your images to the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics Lab on the MSU campus. Prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>.
MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!
They should be able to diagnose and ID your problem without seeing a sample. A lot has to do with the quality of your images. They may ask for additional images.
THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).
Lab phone:<personal data hidden>
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
PLEASE READ BELOW ON PREPARING YOUR SAMPLE (if the lab needs one)
From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. Due to the current COVID-19 circumstances, please allow additional processing time. They thank you for your patience and understanding.
Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf
Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/
Another option (more expensive), you may want to hire a certified arborist. Certified arborists have training in plant selection, care, diseases/pests, and have passed a certification test. They can do an onsite evaluation of the tree(s). You can find certified professionals in your zip code here: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist/arboristsearch
Hope this helps!!
References:
Bark Splitting on Trees: Various: Cornell University at this link: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
Ornamental Cherry Diseases - Pennsylvania State University at this link: https://extension.psu.edu/ornamental-cherry-diseases
Based on what I see in your images:
Sunscald, especially in the winter, can cause bark injury to thin-barked or young trees. Although an exact split may not be seen immediately, the outer layer of bark will peel away from the affected area in the summer following the winter damage. Sunscald injuries to tree limbs can be minimized by avoiding heavy pruning of trees with dense canopies. Gradual limb thinning over years is preferable, particularly on thin-barked trees. Newly planted trees may be protected from sunscald by wrapping main trunks with tree wrap. As mentioned before, certain trees are more susceptible to splits than others. The trees on which we receive the most inquiries concerning splits are Ornamental cherry trees. Any newly-planted tree, especially of a thin-barked species, is a candidate for bark-splitting if it is not cared for properly. Splits can occur on the trunk of the tree as well as on branches. Trees that are most susceptible to this type of injury are those which are thin-barked, such as certain fruit trees. Newly-planted trees or young trees are more prone to bark-splitting. Bark splits are not likely to be fatal to trees, although they will, in some cases, allow entry of disease organisms that can cause decay. A tree should be able to close most splits through proper treatment to encourage the natural callusing process. Based on the looks of this split, I would have this treated by an arborist
There is no single reason for bark splitting on trees. During late winter and early spring, severe cold followed by rapid thawing can result in splits referred to as "frost cracks". These frost cracks can actually start from a wound inflicted earlier in the tree's development. Sometimes the crack may remain in the internal wood, but frosts can cause the crack to expand and split the bark. Excessively late growth in the fall stimulated by warm temperatures, high humidity, and high nitrogen levels can increase susceptibility of trees to frost cracking. Fluctuating growth conditions may also cause splitting of bark. Dry weather (which slows growth) followed by wet or ideal growth conditions may cause an excessive or vigorous amount of growth leading to splits in the bark.
Since this crack in the trunk is close to the ground another cause is injury. Has someone used a weed whacker a little too close to the trunk recently? If the tree looks otherwise healthy, but it’s leaking sap from a single fresh looking wound, it’s probably just been nicked by something metal. There’s nothing much you can do but wait for it to heal.
If the sap oozing from cherry trees is free of sawdust and more than a foot above the ground, you're probably looking at canker disease. There are a few types of canker disease that cause sap oozing from cherry trees, and all of them result in sunken, dead material (or cankers) around the ooze
Both larvae and adult borers use the weeping cherry tree's bark as a successful hiding place and feeding area. As they feed and move about the bark, sap leaks from the orifices. It is typically a mixture of sap and frass, or insect feces, that drips down the tree, about 12 inches above the soil line.
I recommend that you get a confirmed diagnosis from the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics Lab on the MSU campus Please e-mail your images to the MSU Plant and Pest Diagnostics Lab on the MSU campus. Prior to bringing or sending physical samples. Images can be sent to <personal data hidden>.
MAKE SURE IN THAT E-MAIL YOU INCLUDE YOUR NAME, ADDRESS, AND PHONE NUMBER!!
They should be able to diagnose and ID your problem without seeing a sample. A lot has to do with the quality of your images. They may ask for additional images.
THE LAB WILL LET YOU KNOW IF A SAMPLE NEEDS TO BE SENT - There is a $20-25 dollar fee (if they need a sample sent).
Lab phone:<personal data hidden>
Hours of operation: Monday through Friday, from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
PLEASE READ BELOW ON PREPARING YOUR SAMPLE (if the lab needs one)
From the lab: Please do not ship samples on Fridays. Due to the current COVID-19 circumstances, please allow additional processing time. They thank you for your patience and understanding.
Every sample must be accompanied by a completed submission form. Please place the form in a separate resealable bag to prevent it from getting damp or soiled. The form is at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/uploads/files/General_Sample_Submission_Form_May2022.pdf
Complete details of submitting a sample are at this link: https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/submit-samples/
Another option (more expensive), you may want to hire a certified arborist. Certified arborists have training in plant selection, care, diseases/pests, and have passed a certification test. They can do an onsite evaluation of the tree(s). You can find certified professionals in your zip code here: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist/arboristsearch
Hope this helps!!
References:
Bark Splitting on Trees: Various: Cornell University at this link: http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/factsheets/barksplitting.pdf
Ornamental Cherry Diseases - Pennsylvania State University at this link: https://extension.psu.edu/ornamental-cherry-diseases
