The yellow spotting on the lower rose foliage may be due to rust, a fungal disease that causes rusty-orange spores to be produced on the leaf undersides once the infection has advanced. You can try clipping these infected leaves off, but there is no straightforward way to completely suppress the infection at this point. Fungicides might help keep it from spreading further, but they cannot reverse existing damage. We generally discourage fungicide use since they don't always work (weather plays a large role in disease spread and may interfere with the timing of sprays), require repeated treatments, and risk harming pollinators or other beneficial organisms. If you try one, though, generally copper-based formulations provide some degree of control. Infected or injured leaves cannot heal and may shed early, so don't be alarmed if they turn yellower and fall off.

The rust may or may not be a factor in the bloom cycle. Roses naturally cycle up and down in bloom production, needing some "rest" to recuperate their resources to produce the next flush of blooms. We do see some buds in the photos, but if they're still blooming less than in prior years, perhaps they are not getting as much sun as they used to (if near a maturing tree or shrub). Roses also tend to regrow best when cut back in late winter; preferred heights vary from gardener to gardener, but making cuts roughly 18" off the ground is typical.

The minor amount of leaf chewing and holes is probably due to roseslug sawfly, a very common insect pest of roses. Despite this, they usually don't need management, and in some cases only have one generation per year, so by the time their damage is noticed, the insects may be gone.

Some of the young rose growth looks a bit under-nourished, but this might be due to internal issues in that particular stem and not due to deficient soil. If the plants have not been fertilized in recent years, one modest dose (as per package label instructions) of a general-purpose organic fertilizer might help, but isn't generally necessary otherwise. Ideally, the results of a laboratory soil test should be used to direct fertilizer applications for lawns and gardens so nutrients are not over-applied, though for a one-time boost this won't be critical.

Although we don't see any other issues of concern, you can explore our Roses: Identify and Manage Problems page for other common rose ailments, should they arise in the future. The Knock Out series are resistant to black spot, but not immune, nor are they equally resistant to other rose infections, so it's something to be aware of going forward.

The Ninebark looks normal to us, though there is one leaf with a bit of spotting that might be fungal. (But not serious yet. You can clip it off if you prefer.) The occasional wilted leaf may be due to physical damage from storms, wildlife, or pruning and can be clipped off as well. As with any shrub or perennial, it's best to feel the soil occasionally to see when watering would be needed if the weather is hot and rains are irregular. If damp to the touch around five inches deep, the plant probably doesn't need water; if becoming dry at that depth, water well. When irrigating, try to avoid wetting the leaves so this doesn't encourage fungal infection; if unavoidable, water in the morning so the foliage can dry by nightfall. Ninebark can contract powdery mildew in humid conditions, even when the leaves are dry, but we don't see signs of this in the photo. While you obviously can't help late-day rains that keep leaves wet, limiting leaf wetness the rest of the time can help reduce fungal spore spread.

Miri