We saw a lot of scorched plants and shriveled berries last summer due to the heat wave so be certain mummy berry is what you are dealing with (early symptoms can also be confused with Blueberry scorch virus). With mummy berry, the dried, shriveled infected berries (or mummies) drop to the ground in fall and winter and form apothecia (small mushrooms) that appear in the spring around bud break. Look for the apothecia in spring, and white fungal hyphae in infected green berries for clear signs of the disease (here is a video on how to monitor for mummy berry: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyG-B0cr9gc).

It is difficult to stop the spread of mummy berry, since it is spread by wind, rain and pollinating insects, so management needs to focus on the overwintering stage and cultural controls. Whether you remove infected plants or not depends on whether you want to go to the effort of trying to manage the disease. If you do decide to replant, rotate your new plant to a different area of the garden, and select a resistant cultivar. Some blueberry cultivars are more susceptible to mummy berry than others (Berkeley, Elliot, Earliblue, and Dixi are highly susceptible).

Non-chemical control options include harvesting and destroying mummified fruit before it drops to the ground, mulching with 2 inches of Douglas-fir sawdust in the dormant season to prevent the emergence of the apothecia, and destroying any emerging apothecia in spring (can use a rake). There are fungicides that can be used, but fungicides need to be applied between bud break and the end of flowering to protect the foliage and flowers from infection. Begin spraying when the earliest cultivars break bud. You will need to rotate chemicals with different modes of action in order to prevent resistance buildup. For more on mummy berry management, see https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/blueberry-vaccinium-corymbosum-mummy-berry.