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Decaying Tree Roots and Leveling the Ground #790273

Asked May 11, 2022, 2:21 PM EDT

Hello, I'm hoping you can assist me with an issue I am having with my yard. Prior to me buying my house, the previous owner had a large tree removed from the backyard (I believe a silver maple). I do not know whether she had the stump ground or not. Over the last several years, numerous "soft spots" and sunken depressions have appeared in the area, to the extent that someone could step in them and trip or twist an ankle, and it's almost impossible to get the lawnmower over the area. I want to smooth the area out and fill it in with topsoil. So, I started digging in all of the areas where there were depressions or the earth was soft. In some places I dug up parts of the old roots, which are soft, light and almost feel like Styrofoam. But even now, after I've cleared a big area, I can still sink into the dirt almost 6 inches in places because it's so loose and soft (I have not added topsoil yet). What is my best option for getting this area level?  I didn't know if I should do anything more to "clear" the area, other than digging what I have and then filling it with topsoil. I am also hoping to not have to do this more than once, but I'm not sure how to prevent more decay from happening. I've attached some pictures of what this all looks like. I appreciate any advice you may have! Thank you, Joy Piper

Oakland County Michigan

Expert Response

You have the remains of a tree naturally decaying in your yard and returning nutrients to the soil.  Normally I would leave the rotting roots there to contribute nutrients back into the soil but since they are causing lawn difficulties for pedestrians and lawn mowers I am advising that the rotting wood debris be removed where feasible and disposed of as yard waste.  You mention "more decay" as if there is more wood to decay - remove as much wood as possible as well.  If there are big unrotted roots or stump parts consider burning them in place, if your local government will give you permission.
Next I'd mix the soil and composted wood by rototilling.  I'd add topsoil while tilling to make the area level and not have layers of old  and new soil.
It's getting late to spring seed because we'll be in the hot dry summer weather by the time the seed germinates (requiring frequent sprinkling during the hot summer days).  You'll have more success preparing the site over the summer and seeding toward the end of August when fall rains and cooler temperatures will aid germination and new turf establishment.  I'm attaching several links to articles on site prep, fertilizing and seeding a lawn:
Establishing A New Lawn Using Seed-MSU
Renovation of Lawns-PSU
Turfgrass species ID & Cultivar Selection (E2912)-MSU
Lawn Maintenance Calendar-MSU
Spring Reseeding Tips-MSU
You might also consider a soil test on your yard to learn what type of soil you have, pH, fertility, organic content and much more. It only costs $25 and they will provide you with a lawn fertilizer recommendation in addition to the analysis of your soil sample. Click on the links to read more info and order a soil test: Don't Guess-Soil Test-MSU and MSU Home Soil Test-self mailer
Dick M. Replied May 13, 2022, 5:48 PM EDT

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