Holly disease? - Ask Extension
Can you tell me what ails this holly? It's one of two growing in large containers next to side door of house. They are in full sun, facing west. I...
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Holly disease? #785175
Asked March 26, 2022, 1:30 PM EDT
Can you tell me what ails this holly? It's one of two growing in large containers next to side door of house. They are in full sun, facing west. I planted them in the containers last spring. I just noticed the changes about a week ago, The leaves at first just appeared dull, light green, then the dark patches appeared. Some kind of fungus? How should I treat, or should I even bother at this point? (The other one is just starting to show some of the same leaf discoloration.)
Thank you!
Linda
Baltimore County Maryland
Expert Response
This does not look like an insect or disease issue. This looks like winterburn or winter damage on the holly leaves. There is no need to treat. The leaves will drop and the shrubs will put out new foliage in the spring.
Winterburn is caused by soil moisture becoming temporarily unavailable for root absorption during periods of freezing weather. Meanwhile, dry winter air and winds are still evaporating moisture from evergreen foliage. Since the plant can't replace what's being lost, the leaf tissue dries too much and dies, becoming bleached-looking or brown and brittle. You can think of it a bit like freezer burn. Injured leaves can't heal, but they will gradually be replaced as the plant resumes growth, at which point the damaged leaves will fall off.
If you are looking for trees/shrubs that will survive in containers over the winter, it is recommended to look for ones that are cold hardy to two zones lower than your local growing zone. In other words, if you are in USDA zone 7, look for trees/shrubs that are cold hardy down to zone 5.
The key to overwintering plants in containers is to prevent the soil mass from freezing and to maintain moisture in the soil throughout the winter. It is good the plants are in large containers. The larger the pot size the better because size will minimize the stress of fluctuating soil temperature and moisture. However, the containers have to be monitored throughout the seasons for moisture. They also need holes for good drainage. If the planters are on hard paving they should be elevated for effective drainage.
Check the soil moisture about once a week especially during dry periods and also if under an overhang. Water deeply if needed. Check the soil moisture by probing with a screwdriver about 4-6 inches deep and feel with your finger. Soil should be damp to the touch. Let the soil dry before watering again.
https://web.extension.illinois.edu/containergardening/overwintering.cfm
Marian
Winterburn is caused by soil moisture becoming temporarily unavailable for root absorption during periods of freezing weather. Meanwhile, dry winter air and winds are still evaporating moisture from evergreen foliage. Since the plant can't replace what's being lost, the leaf tissue dries too much and dies, becoming bleached-looking or brown and brittle. You can think of it a bit like freezer burn. Injured leaves can't heal, but they will gradually be replaced as the plant resumes growth, at which point the damaged leaves will fall off.
If you are looking for trees/shrubs that will survive in containers over the winter, it is recommended to look for ones that are cold hardy to two zones lower than your local growing zone. In other words, if you are in USDA zone 7, look for trees/shrubs that are cold hardy down to zone 5.
The key to overwintering plants in containers is to prevent the soil mass from freezing and to maintain moisture in the soil throughout the winter. It is good the plants are in large containers. The larger the pot size the better because size will minimize the stress of fluctuating soil temperature and moisture. However, the containers have to be monitored throughout the seasons for moisture. They also need holes for good drainage. If the planters are on hard paving they should be elevated for effective drainage.
Check the soil moisture about once a week especially during dry periods and also if under an overhang. Water deeply if needed. Check the soil moisture by probing with a screwdriver about 4-6 inches deep and feel with your finger. Soil should be damp to the touch. Let the soil dry before watering again.
https://web.extension.illinois.edu/containergardening/overwintering.cfm
Marian
Thanks, Marian. I am currently doing most of the things that you suggest, but this winter’s really cold spells and the western exposure probably contributed. It’s interesting that the shrub on one side of the door shows more damage than the other one. But I’m happy to hear that it should recover!
Thanks again,
Linda Myers
On Mar 28, 2022, at 11:25 AM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
You are welcome.
Marian
Marian