Knowledgebase

What is wrong with my azeleas #778347

Asked November 25, 2021, 12:25 AM EST

I spoke with Belinda the other day and explained that there is a "blight" affecting my azeleas, and one rhododendron. Could you please tell me how to treat this? I had put several applications of Neem Oil on the plants to no avail. Plus, I noticed that it is harmful to honeybees so do not wish to apply it during spring. . .

Washington County Oregon

Expert Response

I suspect strongly that the stippling you see on your azalea leaves is due to the azalea lace bug. Although Neem Oil might be helpful you need to have excellent coverage including the underside of the leaves. Have a look here to read more about this pest:
https://pnwhandbooks.org/insect/hort/landscape/hosts-pests-landscape-plants/rhododendron-rhododendron-azalea-rhododendron-lace-bug

Jay W. Pscheidt, PhD, Professor Replied November 29, 2021, 11:46 AM EST
Dear Dr. Pscheidt,
Thank you for your help; yes, this condition does seem to be due to the Lace Bug.
Could you please tell me, (beginning with azadirachtin and ending with spinosad) which
chemical products would be most useful in this case? Also is it beneficial to apply during the
winter months?
I look forward to hearing from you,
Monique


On Mon, Nov 29, 2021 at 8:46 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied December 02, 2021, 6:40 PM EST

Dear Monique,

Dr. Pscheidt passed your query on to me. 

Keep in mind that right now, azalea lace bugs are present in the egg stage. Azalea lace bug eggs are inserted INTO the plant, along leaves and branches. Thus, many insecticide treatments, applied right now, will have little to no effect on the eggs, since they are physically protected within the plant.

It's also important to keep in mind that the damage you see is last year's damage. The plant will 'wear' that damage, long term. You just have to wait for the plant to 'grow out' of the older damage, when it grows new leaves in the spring.

The key to controlling azalea lace bug on  your plants, when you know that you had an infestation in the past, is to carefully monitor your plants in the spring. You want to catch the newly emerging nymphs, when they are freshly hatched out of their eggs. This is when they are most vulnerable. And, this is when you can have the biggest positive impact on control. In fact, studies at OSU have found that using strong water sprays, to physically wash the nymphs off of your plants, is an effective form of management . . . IF you catch the nymphs when they hatch, early in the spring. If you don't catch them early in the spring, they will move onto the fresh, tender leaves of your plants, and the damage cycle will start anew.

I've listed the chemical control options in the Pacific Northwest Management handbook, for azalea lace bug, and added notes for your to consider. If you are looking for the least toxic option, I would recommend carefully monitoring your plants in the spring, and using the water spray option. If chemical controls are necessary, I would choose an organic pyrethroid.

  • azadirachtin: there is some evidence that applying azadirachtin to azalea leaves and branches can kill overwintering eggs. But, the effect sizes are fairly small and weak, often not statistically different than control treatments.
  • carbaryl: a broad spectrum insecticide, that will harm beneficial insects. 
  • clothianidin: a systemic and broad spectrum insecticide, that will persist within your plants for a long period of time. Can take 14 days before control is seen, after application.
  • dinotefuran: a systemic and broad spectrum insecticide, that will persist within your plants for a long period of time. Once applied, control can be seen in as little as three days after application.
  • esfenvalerate: a type of synthetic pyrethroid (see below).
  • fluvalinate: a type of synthetic pyrethroid (see below).
  • horticultural oils: like water sprays, can be effective if applied early in the spring, during first hatch. Must make sure to get good coverage of plant, particularly the undersides. You may want to test out the oils on a small section of your plants, before coating entire shrubs, to make sure that you don't get leaf burn.
  • imidacloprid: a systemic insecticide, that will persist within your plants for a long period of time. Can take several weeks before control is seen, after application.
  • organic insecticidal soap: like water sprays, can be effective if applied early in the spring, during first hatch. Must make sure to get good coverage of plant, particularly the undersides. You may want to test out the oils on a small section of your plants, before coating entire shrubs, to make sure that you don't get leaf burn.
  • malathion: a broad spectrum insecticide, that will harm beneficial insects. 
  • organic pyrethrins: effective at managing azalea lace bug. These are broad spectrum insecticides, that may also harm beneficial insects. Since pyrethrins are organic, they degrade quicker in the environment, which may help limit negative effects on beneficial insects.
  • synthetic pyrethroids: effective at managing azalea lace bug. These are broad spectrum insecticides, that may also harm beneficial insects.
  • organic spinosad: research trials show that this pesticide is relatively ineffective at controlling azalea lace bug.
Gail Langellotto, Ph.D. (she/her/hers) Replied December 07, 2021, 12:38 PM EST
Dear Dr. Langellotto,
Thank you for your helpful information.
I suppose that I will try Dinotefuran, as it is a systemic treatment.
By early spring do you mean late February or so?
Please let me know.
Thank you again,
Monique 

On Tue, Dec 7, 2021 at 9:38 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied December 12, 2021, 8:59 PM EST

Dinotefuran is known as a 'quick in, quick out' systemic. You want to time the application so that you are just ahead of the egg hatch, in the spring. In Western Oregon, egg hatch has been occurring in early May. I would apply the product in late April, early May, according to label directions. You can also reach out to us, again, to see how winter/spring degree days are accumulating, and what OSU is predicting for Azalea Lace Bug emergence, in 2022.

There may be label restrictions, that prevent the use of this product just prior to or when the azaleas are blooming, in order to protect bees.

Gail Langellotto, Ph.D. (she/her/hers) Replied December 12, 2021, 9:38 PM EST
Dear Dr. Langellotto,
I certainly appreciate your information.
Thank you again,
Monique


On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 6:39 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied December 14, 2021, 6:12 PM EST
Dear Dr. Langellotto,
My azaleas already have buds on them. I had planned to apply the Diontefuran the last week of April or first week of May.
However, I am worried about the honeybees. Should I put a netting over them for 48 hours after application?
Please let me know,
Monique

On Tue, Dec 14, 2021 at 3:02 PM monique berman <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
Dear Dr. Langellotto,
I certainly appreciate your information.
Thank you again,
Monique


On Sun, Dec 12, 2021 at 6:39 PM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied April 08, 2022, 5:47 PM EDT
Hi Monique,

I do recommend netting your azaleas while flowers are open and bees could be actively foraging from blossoms. Since dinotefuran is a quicker 'in-out' insecticide, I would recommend netting for 2-2.5 weeks after insecticide application if the shrub is in bloom.

Thank you for thinking about ways to protect the bees!
Gail Langellotto, Ph.D. (she/her/hers) Replied April 11, 2022, 12:05 PM EDT
Thank you for your help! 

On Mon, Apr 11, 2022 at 9:05 AM Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:
The Question Asker Replied April 16, 2022, 1:25 AM EDT

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