Hello John,

Please answer these two questions:

How often has this Japanese Maple been watered in the past two months?

Please perform a scratch test on one of the twigs. Was the twig moist and green underneath?

Please let me know and I will get back to you - Thanks!!

Hello John,

The dry dead leaves are most likely the result of not receiving enough water. The other possibility is some issue with roots such as Phytophthora root rot, or verticillium wilt.

Info on verticillium wilt, something to watch for at this link: http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/verticillium_wilt_refresher

Info on Phytophthora Root Rot - Phytophthora is a condition caused by root systems that are too wet. Plants like Japanese maples and rhododendron are the most susceptible because they are the least likely to tolerate wet heavy soils that do not drain well. This is one of the biggest problems that I see with Japanese maples in the home landscape. Soil that does not drain well, or plants that are planted too deeply in the ground. Even in well-drained soil one inch of the root ball should be raised above the existing grade of the bed. In poorly drained soil I suggest at least half of the root ball be raised above the existing grade, then covered with good rich topsoil.

• The reason your Japanese maple is dying is most often because of fungal disease. Damp soil promotes the conditions for fungal diseases such as root rot which causes your Japanese maple to die.
• High wind, too much sun, and not enough moisture in the soil can cause brown wilted foliage.
• Japanese maples require an acidic soil pH of between pH 5.5 and 6.5 and most varieties of Japanese maples do not survive very long in alkaline soil.
• Planted Japanese maples in areas with protection from high wind and shade from full sun. Amend the soil with compost before planting so the soil is well-draining yet can retain moisture which is the optimal balance for Japanese maples.
• Too much fertilizer harms Japanese Maples

I would do one of two things:

I would send these pictures, leaf samples, both partly dried up ones and some healthy ones, and at least one branch sample with the problem leaves attached to the MSU Plant Diagnostic lab. They will examine them under a microscope and can tell if there is insect damage, fungus, or leaf scorch. The branch is how they can check for verticillium wilt. Their fee schedule( I think the fee is about $25), form, and instructions are here—- https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid/

The second thing would be to hire a certified arborist to come on-site and examine everything. This costs a little more but is minor compared to the value of this specimen. (I think it is about $70-$100)

To Find an Arborist by Zip Code go to this link: https://www.treesaregood.org/findanarborist/arboristsearch

Also, if you have not had a soil test you might want to get one. Details at this link: https://homesoiltest.msu.edu/get-started

Hope this helps!!