A hardy, versatile evergreen plant, juniper (Juniperus spp.) is available in a number of forms, from low-growing ground covers or midsize shrubs in rounded or weeping shapes to tall trees that reach mature heights of 50 feet or more. Propagating juniper via cuttings is a low-cost way to plant more of these trees on your property and faster than growing juniper by seed. Propagating juniper is best done by taking cuttings between mid-autumn and mid-winter. Because the tree will be dormant, the cuttings won't need quite as much initial care.

Place 1 teaspoon of general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in the bottom of a 6-inch pot with drainage holes. Fill the container to within 1 inch of the rim with a potting mixture consisting of equal parts peat moss and finely chopped bark. Cut six or seven 4- to 6-inch stems from a healthy, pest- and disease-free juniper, using a pair of clean, sharp pruners. Cut young stems that are slightly firm but still green. Pinch any side shoots from the bottom one-third of the cutting. Pour out some rooting hormone into another container to not contaminate the full supply. Dip the base of the stems in powdered, gel or liquid rooting hormone. Tap off the excess. Cuttings should be planted so that one-third to one-half of their total length is buried in the soil. Allow 1 1/2 inches between each cutting. Water lightly to settle the potting mixture around the cuttings. Cover the pot with a plastic bag, and then secure the bag around the pot with a rubber band. Cut four or five small slits in the plastic to provide air circulation. Place the pot in bright, indirect light. Check the pot weekly and water lightly if the potting mixture feels dry. Be sure the mixture isn't saturated because excessive moisture will rot the cuttings. Rooting juniper cuttings in water rather than potting soil may also rot the stems.

Wait Until Summer

Although the stems will begin to root in late winter, new growth usually isn't apparent until early summer. This is typical of all hardwood plants that enter dormancy: the root system remains active to store water and nutrients in preparation for spring growth. Transplant each rooted cutting into a 3-inch container (with drainage holes) filled with a mixture of two parts garden soil, one part peat moss and one part coarse sand. Place the pots in partial shade for four or five days so the roots have time to settle, then move the pots into bright sunlight. Allow the young juniper to mature for at least another growing season before planting the shrub outdoors in a sunny, well-draining location away from overhead wires. The larger the shrub, the higher the chance of long-term survival. If the plant outgrows its pot, move it into a larger container filled with peat moss and sand. Always choose a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.

Hope this helps!

A hardy, versatile evergreen plant, juniper (Juniperus spp.) is available in a number of forms, from low-growing ground covers or midsize shrubs in rounded or weeping shapes to tall trees that reach mature heights of 50 feet or more. Propagating juniper via cuttings is a low-cost way to plant more of these trees on your property and faster than growing juniper by seed. Propagating juniper is best done by taking cuttings between mid-autumn and mid-winter. Because the tree will be dormant, the cuttings won't need quite as much initial care.

Place 1 teaspoon of general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer in the bottom of a 6-inch pot with drainage holes. Fill the container to within 1 inch of the rim with a potting mixture consisting of equal parts peat moss and finely chopped bark. Cut six or seven 4- to 6-inch stems from a healthy, pest- and disease-free juniper, using a pair of clean, sharp pruners. Cut young stems that are slightly firm but still green. Pinch any side shoots from the bottom one-third of the cutting. Pour out some rooting hormone into another container to not contaminate the full supply. Dip the base of the stems in powdered, gel or liquid rooting hormone. Tap off the excess. Cuttings should be planted so that one-third to one-half of their total length is buried in the soil. Allow 1 1/2 inches between each cutting. Water lightly to settle the potting mixture around the cuttings. Cover the pot with a plastic bag, and then secure the bag around the pot with a rubber band. Cut four or five small slits in the plastic to provide air circulation. Place the pot in bright, indirect light. Check the pot weekly and water lightly if the potting mixture feels dry. Be sure the mixture isn't saturated because excessive moisture will rot the cuttings. Rooting juniper cuttings in water rather than potting soil may also rot the stems.

Wait Until Summer

Although the stems will begin to root in late winter, new growth usually isn't apparent until early summer. This is typical of all hardwood plants that enter dormancy: the root system remains active to store water and nutrients in preparation for spring growth. Transplant each rooted cutting into a 3-inch container (with drainage holes) filled with a mixture of two parts garden soil, one part peat moss and one part coarse sand. Place the pots in partial shade for four or five days so the roots have time to settle, then move the pots into bright sunlight. Allow the young juniper to mature for at least another growing season before planting the shrub outdoors in a sunny, well-draining location away from overhead wires. The larger the shrub, the higher the chance of long-term survival. If the plant outgrows its pot, move it into a larger container filled with peat moss and sand. Always choose a container with drainage holes to prevent soggy soil.

Hope this helps!