Dear Kurt.

First Japanese beetle traps are enormously counterproductive. The sexual attractant will draw far more beetles to your property to lay grubs than they will kill. https://www.extension.purdue.edu/article/34999  

Second, you are way overfertilizing your yard. It is possible that some of the damage is fertilizer burn and sunburn together.  Nitrogen can burn a lawn, https://blog.davey.com/2017/09/grass-turning-yellow-after-fertilizing-here-s-how-to-repair/#:~:text=How%20to%20Repair%20Burned%20Grass,fully%20flush%20out%20the%20salt.

There is plenty of phosphorus in Henn Co lawns. 

https://pss.uvm.edu/ppp/articles/phos.html

If you are using a lawn service, cut them back to mowing only.

The third issue is mower height. In general, the taller the grass, the deeper its roots and the more it is able to survive drought and fight off invaders. If your mower is lower than 3.5 inches, raise it.  

I suggest that you get a soil test, stop fertilizing until you see the soil test results, https://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/

Let your grass go to four inches all summer, core aerate in late August, dethatch after that and overseed with a mixture of blue and fine fescue. Navigate through here:  https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/lawn-care

I will be fascinated to see your soil report.

My lawn is diverse with bluegrass, fine fescue, sorrel, violets, squill, etc. Maintaining a bluegrass monoculture involves heavily stressing the grass with herbicides which I never use. 

I mow it to 4.5 inches--the taller the grass the deeper the roots go to reach moisture. I fertilize once every other year but let the nitrogen fixing clover do the rest for me. Fertilizing increases metabolic demand by grass and therefore increases water needs. My lawn is thick and deep green and lush. I remember watering it in June, nothing in July.The outdoor water I use is for perennials, veggies, and trees.

This picture was taken five minutes ago. 

The pallid lawn top left is mowed short and maintained to a monoculture; stressed-it appears dry.

Can you send me a picture of the soil report?

I expect that all NPK were all high and that you have some fertilizer burn which becomes much worse in the heat.
I also expect that your organic content is low either from compaction or from removing your lawn clippings.

If I am correct then the path to lawn rejuvenation involves 1 inch of clean compost on lawn then a vigorous aeration in late August, early Sept, and then overseeding with 75% bluegrass, 25% fine fescue (you can buy the seed separately at large garden centers) to mix yourself.  If you mix in some soil to add bulk, it is easier to spread by hand or by a hand cranked spreader.  Water carefully all fall.

Do not mow this fall no matter how much it grows or you will pull the new seedlings out.  Raise your mower to 4 inches for all of next year.

Thank you.  I missed seeing your soil report.

There is no nitrogen analysis.

Was this area landscaped or sodded in the last 2-3 years?

Thank you.  I missed seeing your soil report.

There is no nitrogen analysis.

Was this area landscaped or sodded in the last 2-3 years?

Hi Kurt, 

I had a thought last night. Some times lawns are poisoned by road salt that is plowed up on them in winter. https://www.thoughtco.com/chemical-composition-of-road-salt-609168

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/environmental/salt-injury-to-plants.htm#:~:text=to%20a%20minimum.-,Salt%20Injury%20to%20Plants,the%20tip%20to%20the%20base.

https://homeguides.sfgate.com/negative-effects-road-salt-lawn-84792.html

Possible?