Knowledgebase
Birch Tree Issues #754941
Asked June 08, 2021, 9:25 PM EDT
Hello, please see the attached photos. The birch tree was planted 2 years ago is having some difficulty this year and is showing signs of disease or fungus. Outside of spreading 12-12-12 fertilizer evenly around the base of the tree each spring, the tree has not received any different treatment. As of recent, ants appear to be traveling up and down the tree. Any help or guidance for treatment would be appreciated. Thank you.
Macomb County Michigan
Expert Response
Hello Clayton,
On the leaves this looks like an insect, wooly birch aphid, also known as spiny witch hazel gall aphid. Control options are here, if you have many leaves affected which warrants treatment.
http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/200510e.html
http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu/pastpest/200510e.html
The dieback of the branches can be from drought stress, which can slowly affect branches for several seasons after a drought occurs. Michigan has had several drought periods over the last several years. Birches need moist soil and during dry times they should be deeply watered from spring through fall. Lawn sprinklers do not deliver enough extra water.
Dieback can also be on the side that receives the most severe winter wind, from root zone damage, from foot traffic, vehicle parking, or storage of material over the roots; construction or other digging in the area.
Examine the trunk for signs of injury from animals, mowers or weed whips. This can cause dieback of limbs on that side, too.
The tree should no longer need staking after the first year. It is better for the tree to remove the stakes as soon as its roots are established and holding firmly, as some movement of the trunk in the wind helps develop stronger wood and reduces the chance the ropes will scar or damage the bark.
If this tree is still unstable after two years, the roots are not properly establishing. Consult a certified arborist if this is the case. This is a professional who has taken training in care, diseases, pests and passed certification tests. He/she will come on site and give a complete diagnosis, advise you how to prune out the dead branches, examine the roots, and give you a plant care plan.
You can find them by zip code here— http://www.treesaregood.org
Glad to help, Clayton.
Since there already is some dieback try to preserve as many leafy branches as possible. Treat with insecticidial soap( not dish soap) as directed in the references.
Use sharp, clean tools to prune- a clean cut heals over more quickly. See the manual below, ‘printed’ page 19, for a guide on how to prune. Prune back to a crotch or intersection where you see green below the bark. Some die back may be all the way to the main trunk, but dormant buds will eventually grow more branches( takes a 2-3 seasons). When in doubt, prune less. You can always go back and remove a branch that failed to leaf out later.
Yes, do water during dry times; if in doubt, carefully dig 8 inches down with a small trowel to check soil moisture, avoiding as many roots as possible. I would say the number one “killer of trees” in landscapes is lack of deep watering.
Mulch with chipped bark or shredded wood products, they will last longer than compost. When mulching place mulch no deeper than 3 inches and leave a “donut hole” where the trunk is so mulch does not touch the bark. See the Tree Owner’s Manual, page 11: https://trees.umn.edu/sites/trees.umn.edu/files/files/tree_owners_manual_0.pdf
regards, Laura
