Hi Dan,

I also took a look at the report and agree: ash, alfalfa meal and compost.   A question may be why is her test low, is it subsoil related or added compost.  I've been exploring using subsoil maps to compare its pH with test results.  If subsoils agree with test results, long term plans need to be established. Otherwise if subsoils are ok then the client may want to take a look at whats been added (ie compost).  Sometimes if a client has a large property they may have different soil types.  

It was a pleasure collaborating with you.  If you see any questions assigned to me that interest you, jump right in.

Enjoy

Jeff 



Hi Berry,

Sorry for the mixup with your recieving an internal note instead of the following response:

Modifying the soils pH is a priority to ensure plants are able to utilize available nutrients. Thus the extensions recommendation to lime.

Liming takes time to apply amounts needed to achieve desired pH, and over liming can cause other problems so it's important to not exceed extension recommendations. The initial dose will affect the soil in approximately 8 weeks. Another option is to use wood ash, which takes effect sooner and provides other nutrients. If you are unable to find a commercial source, I would not recommend this approach. The commercial ash will provide amounts needed for desired pH. I use my furnace wood ash very carefully, because I have ruined compost by adding too much. Using a pH probe to test compost helps me a great deal to make sure I’m not introducing problems.

Do you have a local source for commercially bagged wood ash? If you would like help determining amounts, please provide your garden dimensions? Soil preparation should be performed prior to planting, are the beds empty?

If you are unable to find a wood ash source you should add a compost with the desired pH and lime after the growing season and again in spring.

Please let us know should you have further questions.

Enjoy Gardening

Jeff Nummelin
Extension Master Gardener Hotline Volunteer

The excerpt below is from an article discussing using wood ash.

https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource004042_Rep5718.pdf

Many home gardeners and farmers choose to use wood ash as a soil amendment. Wood ash contains significant amounts of potassium and calcium, while providing smaller amounts of phosphorous and magnesium and micro-nutrients like zinc and copper. If your soil is deficient in these nutrients, using wood ash is a great way to supplement your garden’s needs. Wood ash contains a significant amount of calcium, the primary substitute for lime to increase the pH of acidic soils. Wood ash is a natural substitute for lime to help maintain proper soil pH. Wood Ash as a Liming Agent Soil pH is a measure of the soils relative acidity or alkalinity. Most crops grow best in a slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.0- 6.8. New Hampshire soils are naturally acidic and periodic liming is necessary to maintain agricultural productivity. Acidic soils (below a pH of 6.0) reduce the availability of most plant nutrients and can reduce biological activity in the soil. Wood ash is more soluble and reactive than ground limestone, and brings about a change in soil pH more quickly than lime. Lime can take 6 months to 1-year to fully take effect.

Wood ash is a good source potassium (K) ~5%, calcium (Ca) ~25%, phosphorous (P) ~2%, and magnesium (Mg) ~1% which are essential plant nutrients. Crops have been shown to positively respond to K and P from wood ash. Other micro-nutrients in wood ash include boron, copper, molybdenum, sulfur and zinc.