Knowledgebase

Grass Dying Out #752585

Asked May 27, 2021, 4:20 PM EDT

I am loosing more and more of the Bermuda grass on the south and southwest side of the backyard. I have lived here since April 2019 and at that time there was grass in the entire area. But, it has been dying back each year and now there are significant areas with no grass. There are Magnolia trees and a fence along the south lot line, but the majority of the area receives full sun all day long. I had the company (Davenport) we use to fertilize the lawn take soil samples which were submitted to NCDA&CS for analysis. I receive their report today, but am not sure how to interpret it. I am hoping you can tell me what you think I need to do to reverse this problem. I have attached a copy of the report, along with several photos of the area. The grass in the rest of the backyard and the entire front yard looks great. Thank you.

Wake County North Carolina

Expert Response

Can you resubmit the soil test. It is bouncing around when I try to read it. From what I could see there is a fertilizer recommendation of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet.  Hard to see because the file is jumping.

Angela

Please let me know if you need any further assistance! Replied June 01, 2021, 4:27 PM EDT
Hi Angela,

I’ve attached a copy of the soil test report.

Thanks,

Marty




On Jun 1, 2021, at 4:27 PM, Extension Foundation <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

The Question Asker Replied June 01, 2021, 4:42 PM EDT

Thanks Marty, it looks like the soil is deficient and needs a fertilizer; however, with these really dry conditions I would be hesitant about doing that unless you are committed to watering the lawn.  When a lawn is stressed out, you don't usually want to fertilize it without having water.  What is the fertilizer company suggesting?  It's kind of hard for me to give a hard and fast just looking at the pictures.  

Please keep me posted,

Angela

Please let me know if you need any further assistance! Replied June 01, 2021, 4:51 PM EDT
Hi Angela,

I use Davenport Environmental .  They sent this information today on what they recommend be done:

The soil series of your property is known as the Cecil-Urban land complex (CfC). I have attached some information about this soil series to help us work through your soil sample report. This soil series is not prime farmland and the most limiting factor is going to be the soil’s ability to hold onto nutrients. In your soil report, this is known as the CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity). Low CEC ratings means nutrients are only available for short periods of time before they are leached away. Compost and biochar are terrific ways to increase the CEC in your soil. This will increase the soil’s water capacity and nutrient exchange capacity.
 
The soil test does not recommend a lime application at this time. The soil report does recommend a corrective application of phosphorus and potassium. Keep in mind-without increasing the CEC through compost or organic matter, nutrients will not be held in the soil for long. Calcium will leach away-resulting in a lower pH which will be the native soil’s pH; which is slightly lower than the pH your turf prefers. I would recommend have the lawn top dressed with ¼” - ½” of compost before this corrective application of phosphorus and potassium, so it does not leach away. I would also recommend that next year adding our biochar amendment with your aeration. Here is a link to the biochar amendment we use to supplement our aerations for customers whom result it: https://www.lesco.com/products/carbonpro

What are your thoughts?  Since we have Bermuda grass I have not been watering at all.  I have attached another photo showing the area of the backyard that still looks good, but the grass dying out keeps creeping towards that area, as you can see in the foreground.

Thanks,

Marty

image

On Jun 1, 2021, at 4:51 PM, North Carolina State University <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

The Question Asker Replied June 01, 2021, 5:15 PM EDT

What I also gathered from your soil report is that your soil is deficient in nutrients.  One other thing that you can do that is FREE is take some really good CLOSE up pics of the grass, bare areas, and the blades of grass and submit to this site to see if you have any type of disease.
https://pdic.ces.ncsu.edu/how-to-submit/
Photo submissions are free, and physical samples are $30.

I am not familiar with the specific treatment they are recommending.  Please don't read anything into that, I just don't know all of the treatment methods available.

Angela

Please let me know if you need any further assistance! Replied June 02, 2021, 12:23 PM EDT
Hi Angela,

I sent 6 close up photos a few minutes ago to <personal data hidden>.  I had to reduce the size of each image to “large” because the files would have been to large to send via email.  I have attached a link to my Adobe Lightroom photo website for these same 6 photos which would allow you to view them at “actual" size. 

Thanks,

Marty




On Jun 2, 2021, at 12:23 PM, North Carolina State University <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

The Question Asker Replied June 02, 2021, 1:04 PM EDT

Loading ...