Hello Swatantra

I have some suggestions for you but diagnosing lawn problems online is rather difficult.

First the grass looks like it’s cut rather short. Grass should be left 3-4 inches long. Especially in a sunny area, this helps the grass shade itself in the heat of the day. The longer the grass blades the deeper the root system can develop. Short grass blades have very short roots and so the grass is much more susceptible to drought, disease and pests.

On even a slight slope irrigation is going to run downhill and so grass will not receive enough water without cycling the irrigation to allow time for water to absorb into the soil-

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-7-w.pdf

You should perform a “catch can” or “tuna can” irrigation test to determine how much water you are putting down, and whether the water is being distributed evenly. The containers you use should all be the same size. Many folks save tunafish cans for this test-

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/landscape-irrigation-auditing-made-simple

If your soil is compacted and difficult to dig in you will need to aerate it so that roots can receive enough water and oxygen.

If your soil is sandy you need to divide your water schedule into several “doses” across 4-5 days per week because sandy soils do not hold water well. Lawns need 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week.

MSU has a nice residential turf site with several articles on lawn care that can help, should you need- https://www.canr.msu.edu/home_gardening/lawns/

Crabgrass is an annual grassy weed. This means that it dies every fall after setting seed. The seeds sprout the next spring and the whole cycle starts over again. Besides a thick healthy lawn that shades the seeds out, you can use herbicide to control crabgrass.

Timing of pre-emergent herbicide application is one reason for failure, and extended spring conditions, another. Here is an article explaining -

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/timing_crabgrass_pre_emergence_applications

After crabgrass has sprouted there are herbicides to control the small plants. Very large crab grass plants will not be as susceptible to post emergent herbicideS. Here are the details-

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/controlling_crabgrass_after_it_emerges

For disease or pest issues you can take clear pictures of the problem area about 5 feet away; and a picture of leaf blades,( lay some out on a plain sheet of paper and photograph about 6-8 inches away). Please open a new question and attach those pictures.

I hope this I formation is helpful.

Hello,

I don’t think the soil is an issue, unless it is very packed down such that roots and water can’t penetrate soil well. Have you dug into this area to see if the soil is hard and packed down, difficult to dig?

The pattern of this problem seems to be angular, as if it is in the pattern from heavy construction equipment, a fertilizer spreader, or following the shadow of the building or other structure.

Otherwise, this  is beyond what we can determine here. Please submit a sod sample from the problem area to MSU Plant Diagnostic lab. During Covid, they ask that you start by emailing them ( <personal data hidden>) your question and pictures of the lawn before you submit the actual sod sample.

There is a fee for the sod sample diagnostic service. The fee schedule, submittal form, and instructions on how to take a sample and mail it into the lab are on their website.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/pestid

Regards, Laura