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Method to repair lawn damage from Japanese beetles #740752

Asked March 25, 2021, 4:38 PM EDT

The extension website has info about identifying bugs and damage, and says "do not treat in the spring" but it doesn't have any advice about what to do about a damaged lawn. Most of my front yard is all brown and looks horrible. Same with my neighbors. Is there anything that can be done?

Hennepin County Minnesota

Expert Response

Thanks for the question.

It is easy in early spring to think that if the yard is brown then everything died. However in your picture there are many large areas of just dirt. This is not winter kill but, as you surmised, the effects of Japanese Beetle grubs. During the latter part of summer 2020 these grubs ate grass roots that led to the bare spots this spring. The grubs are still in the ground but unlikely to do much further damage. They are now down into the soil and, most likely, quite large. At this stage any grub control insecticide is ineffective. They will emerge from the soil as adults within the next month or so depending upon the weather. These adults will start eating, mate, and lay eggs. These events will take place during June and into July. The eggs will hatch and become grubs in July and August. These grubs are very susceptible to chemical control at that time and then you should apply one or more treatments of grub control. In short, you want to kill these new grubs before they can damage your yard in late summer.

With respect to your current situation, here are a few suggestions:

1). Let your yard dry out for the next couple of weeks. When dry, rake it to remove all dead grass and to loosen up the bare areas.

2). Then seed all the bare areas. Grass seed germinates once the soil temperature is 50 degrees and above. To achieve this requires at least a week or more during which the daytime temperature needs to get to 60 degrees or higher. This will probably occur in late April to early May.

3). Apply your grass seed at that time. It will be important that you use the right mixture of seed. After seeding, water well.  It may be wise to cover the seeded areas with a slight layer of straw (NOT hay).  This will help the soil to retain moisture and to prevent the seed from blowing away.  Just leave this straw on your yard.  The grass will grow through it.  Also the straw will add organic material to your soil.

The following should give you further information on these and other points:

https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles

http://cues.cfans.umn.edu/old/extpubs/7664japanese/DG7664.html

https://www.bachmans.com/information/care-advice/japanese-beetles

https://turf.umn.edu/news/finding-right-grass-seed

https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/renovating-lawn-quality-and-sustainability

Good luck and please get back to us if you have any further questions.

An Ask Extension Expert Replied March 25, 2021, 7:43 PM EDT
Hello again,

I raked my lawn thoroughly last weekend.  In the bare areas I exposed lots of live larva. 
 
Your treatment guidelines say "Do not treat in spring because the large grubs are hard to kill, they feed for a relatively brief time and rarely cause damage in the spring. Treating in spring is no guarantee that the lawn will not be re-infested again in mid-summer.”  Are the grubs pictured considered large? I raked with a steel leaf rake - not digging down.  It seems that they are so exposed they would be easy to kill.

I seem to only have turf damage. I don’t see many adults in the summer.  The plant species in my front yard are all labelled “resistant” - yews, euonymus, dogwood.  I also have service berries and a Kentucky coffee tree on the boulevard.  My backyard has a crab apple and peonies but there I don’t have turf damage or see adult beetles in the summer.

I have not planted any grass seed yet because it has not been consistently warm enough.  Can I use burlap to retain moisture?  How about a loose layer of white or red pine needles - I have access to lots.

Should I just wait and see how the grass seed does?  Should I plan on preventative treatment in June and then a curative treatment in July - September?  It seems like the grubs are just ready to be blasted although I don’t want to use a bunch of bad chemicals.

BTW - All my neighbors have turf damage.  I live in a neighborhood where lawn aesthetics and lawn care ethics vary WIDELY.  Personally I don’t need a perfect turf lawn.  My Dad always said “Grass is the easiest thing to take care of.”  My lawn is/was full of broadleaf weeds, earthworm mounds and odd grasses but at least it was mostly green and I could mow it.  It met the neighborhood standard.  But now my lawn is mostly dead and looks terrible.  I’d consider something more natural, more native, but don’t know if that is sustainable in this urban context.  Would a professional be of any help?  What type of professional - garden designer, landscape architect, nursery person, prairie restoration expert?  Any personal recommendations?

FYI my front yard in fall 2018 - very modest, but now VERY dead and unsightly.  
 

Thank You again, LYNN 

B A R N H O U S E  O F F I C E  L L C
_____

1620 Central Ave NE,  Ste 151A
Minneapolis, MN 55413
p<personal data hidden>

On Mar 25, 2021, at 6:44 PM, Ask Extension <<personal data hidden>> wrote:

The Question Asker Replied April 24, 2021, 12:59 AM EDT

Hi Lynn, thanks for getting back to us.

The presence of grubs in your yard indicates that they are Japanese Beetles. The fact that you have not seen a large number of adult beetles in your yard, given the type of plants you have, doesn’t surprise me. Adult beetles can fly significant distances to deposit their eggs. I suspect that the grubs that are now visiting you came from adults last summer in adjacent properties. Also on this same note, the grubs currently in your yard will mature into adult beetles that may fly elsewhere.

There is no good insecticide that will now kill the grubs currently in your yard. Often birds and skunks will be attracted to them and take care of them. Treating your yard in late June to early July with a grub killer, perhaps at both times would be fine. Hopefully this will forestall damage to your yard this fall.  Waiting until September for the second treatment might be too late.

If you have not already done so, planting grass at this time, or certainly within the next two weeks, would be fine. Covering with burlap would be preferable. There are two issues with using pine needles. Firstly, it takes them a long time to decompose and this process may increase the acidity level of the turf and deplete soil nitrogen. Secondly, once your new grass starts to germinate, removal of the pine needles is difficult to do without uprooting the grass seedlings.

The decision to use the services of a profession gardening service is, of course, up to you. I do not envision that they would be able to provide more information from what we have suggested. Of course going this route would save you time and effort. The following may help you:

https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden - lawns

Good luck and please feel free to get back to us with any additional questions.

An Ask Extension Expert Replied April 24, 2021, 3:45 PM EDT

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