Cleveland Select Flowering Pear Tree - leaf spot? - Ask Extension
Greetings! I need to know if my two Cleveland Select Flowering Pear Trees have the "Leaf Spot" infection, and - if so - how to treat it? Can you hel...
Knowledgebase
Cleveland Select Flowering Pear Tree - leaf spot? #718491
Asked August 28, 2020, 10:53 AM EDT
Greetings! I need to know if my two Cleveland Select Flowering Pear Trees have the "Leaf Spot" infection, and - if so - how to treat it? Can you help?
Sussex County Delaware
Expert Response
Hello, thank you for your question! I have a couple questions about your tree--when was it planted and have you been providing supplemental water? Are the affected leaves on the tips/ends of branches?
Jill, thank you for writing! I purchased the trees from Lowes in mid- to late May. One of the three already had black spots on the leaves when I purchased it. Yes, I am providing supplemental water. No, the black spots are not just on the tips; they are all over the leaves. I am including (hopefully more useful) images. Image #1 and #2 show the spots clearly. Another person suggested that this problem might be "Blister Rust Mite". Please let me know what you think...
Thanks for the additional images! I know these resemble a leaf disease or insect issue, but the pattern of the lesions within the leaves (mainly interveinal necrosis) points to an issue with the roots/soil/watering--something further down on the plant. The very yellow/red leaves look like they're senescing. In the last image, it looks like the tree is still in its pot? If that's the case, the roots are struggling because they have nowhere to go. Additionally, a newly planted tree should get around 1" of supplemental water per week. Here's a good factsheet on watering and caring for new trees: https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/watering-trees-and-shrubs
Dear Jill: Thanks for writing! The tree was planted sometime in May. Dug a hole in very sandy soil, twice as big as the root ball. Removed the plastic pot, set the tree in the hole and filled in around it with garden soil. Top of the root system is right at the top of the soil. Laid bark mulch around the edge of the planting and put landscape bricks. No bark mulch touching the trunk of the tree.
I water the tree at least every second day unless it has rained. I put my watering head on "Shower" and spray the bark mulch for about 1-2 minutes. Because our soil is so sandy, the water is gone within 1 minute. The garden soil around the root ball is packed but not hard-packed - the roots would have no problem growing through it. There is new growth on the tree, but not as much as I would expect or like. In addition to the three pear trees, I have four White Pines and three Eastern Red Cedars, all of which were planted in spring of 2018 are are thriving.
I water the tree at least every second day unless it has rained. I put my watering head on "Shower" and spray the bark mulch for about 1-2 minutes. Because our soil is so sandy, the water is gone within 1 minute. The garden soil around the root ball is packed but not hard-packed - the roots would have no problem growing through it. There is new growth on the tree, but not as much as I would expect or like. In addition to the three pear trees, I have four White Pines and three Eastern Red Cedars, all of which were planted in spring of 2018 are are thriving.
It sounds like you are following good practices. It takes a newly planted tree up to 2 years to become settled in a new place. It sounds like you might be watering more than you need to at this point. Here is a detailed sheet about how much water to give a newly planted shrub: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/watering-newly-planted-trees-and-shrubs. Take care to give enough water, but not over water. I would see if changing watering practice helps. Just keep an eye on the tree and if there's new growth I wouldn't worry too much.
Thank you, Jill. I will read the document you linked to and correct my watering habits. Have a great day!
