Contorta Hazel struggling to establish - Ask Extension
I planted this Contorta Hazel about 8 weeks ago. It has added some new leaves, but many more leaves have turned brown and fallen off. It has receive...
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Contorta Hazel struggling to establish #711779
Asked August 10, 2020, 3:52 PM EDT
I planted this Contorta Hazel about 8 weeks ago. It has added some new leaves, but many more leaves have turned brown and fallen off. It has received plenty of water (maybe too much?), so I cut back on watering and sprinkled some iron supplement around the tree line. I see no evidence of insects, and a neighbor's Contorta Hazel has thrived in a similar patio bed.
I'm concerned that the soil may be the problem. This planting bed lay under a flagstone patio for 50 years. The soil profile (from top down) includes about 4 inches of new bagged topsoil, about 8 inches of gray, granular material that likely underlay the flagstone, and then a rocky shale/clay mix typical of the hills around Deep Creek Lake.
Should I be amending the soil to help this new plant get established before winter sets in? Or, what else do you suggest? Even the annual Ageratums that I planted around the hazel are dying off.
Garrett County Maryland
Expert Response
We agree that this is an establishment issue, related to the area in which it is planted.
There could be a couple of issues.
If we are understanding you correctly, that planting area was a patio. Not only was the granular stone compacted before the patio was laid, but the soil beneath it would be compacted also. Four inches of topsoil is not enough to support the shrub. We assume the pot it came in was likely more than 4" deep so the roots may just be sitting in the stone.
Secondly, you mentioned the soil profile, but didn't list your mulch depth. That shouldn't be more than 2-3 inches deep, and always pulled back from contact with plant trunks, stems etc. The fact that your ageratum annual look like they are dying suggests more of a problem than just the stone base below the topsoil. Maybe the annuals are planted in the mulch?
Overwatering and underwatering would both look similar. Annuals don't usually show transplant shock to the extent that shrubs do.
To get started on figuring this out, we suggest you try pushing a stick or screw driver deeply into the ground, to about 12". We'd guess that the compacted stone will stop you at four (minus the mulch layer). Also, put your finger down into the ground. If you are watering correctly it should feel cool and moist, not wet. If it feels dry, more water is needed.
To fix your issue, we suggest lifting the plant out and amending that area before replanting. The 8 inches of granular stone base that supported the patio should be removed, and you should repeatedly drive a pitchfork into the soil under it and rock it to loosen the soil beneath. Refill the area with a mix of not just top soil but also mix in compost or Leaf-Gro.
Harry Lauder/Contorted Filbert can get 8-10 feet tall and wide so you probably want to plan for that so it's not so close to the fence. They also want full sun to part shade, so hopefully it gets that there. Replant it a little high so that when the soil settles it is still at ground level, and mulch lightly, just a few inches.
Keep it watered until the ground freezes for the winter. Next season, continue to monitor and water regularly if needed as the plant continues to need it throughout the first two years of establishment.
Here is our page on after care for shrubs (click on the red "watering" for more details):
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/after-planting-care
Christine
There could be a couple of issues.
If we are understanding you correctly, that planting area was a patio. Not only was the granular stone compacted before the patio was laid, but the soil beneath it would be compacted also. Four inches of topsoil is not enough to support the shrub. We assume the pot it came in was likely more than 4" deep so the roots may just be sitting in the stone.
Secondly, you mentioned the soil profile, but didn't list your mulch depth. That shouldn't be more than 2-3 inches deep, and always pulled back from contact with plant trunks, stems etc. The fact that your ageratum annual look like they are dying suggests more of a problem than just the stone base below the topsoil. Maybe the annuals are planted in the mulch?
Overwatering and underwatering would both look similar. Annuals don't usually show transplant shock to the extent that shrubs do.
To get started on figuring this out, we suggest you try pushing a stick or screw driver deeply into the ground, to about 12". We'd guess that the compacted stone will stop you at four (minus the mulch layer). Also, put your finger down into the ground. If you are watering correctly it should feel cool and moist, not wet. If it feels dry, more water is needed.
To fix your issue, we suggest lifting the plant out and amending that area before replanting. The 8 inches of granular stone base that supported the patio should be removed, and you should repeatedly drive a pitchfork into the soil under it and rock it to loosen the soil beneath. Refill the area with a mix of not just top soil but also mix in compost or Leaf-Gro.
Harry Lauder/Contorted Filbert can get 8-10 feet tall and wide so you probably want to plan for that so it's not so close to the fence. They also want full sun to part shade, so hopefully it gets that there. Replant it a little high so that when the soil settles it is still at ground level, and mulch lightly, just a few inches.
Keep it watered until the ground freezes for the winter. Next season, continue to monitor and water regularly if needed as the plant continues to need it throughout the first two years of establishment.
Here is our page on after care for shrubs (click on the red "watering" for more details):
https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/after-planting-care
Christine
