You did not mention how old the cherry laurels are and when they were planted; how often they are watered, your planting techniques and how they are cared for.

Some reasons for yellowing and browning of the foliage are planting too deeply, excessive mulch around the stems of the plants, too much or too little moisture, etc.
 Based on the photos we do not see a disease or insect issue. This looks like cultural and environmental issues. (site, planting techniques, etc.)

Here is some information. Before planting, if the roots are root-bound within the container, make several cuts along the outside of the root ball and tease the roots out so they can establish into the surrounding soil.  Take a look at our website for the planting process, video (explains the process), and aftercare.  https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/planting-tree-or-shrub 

Do not plant too deeply. Dig the planting hole deep enough to accommodate the plant with the top of the root ball level with or slightly above ground level.

Make sure mulch is no thicker than several inches and away from the base of the stems.  

At this point, pull excess mulch from around the base of the stems.  You should be able to see the flare of the trunk where it joins the root system. If not, you may be able to carefully remove the excess mulch or soil from the circumference of the trunk to the point where the trunk flares out into root growth. https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/planted-too-deeply

Check the soil moisture of new plants weekly and water deeply if needed.
Plants less than two years old should be watered deeply once or twice per week during the hottest and driest part of the summer. This encourages roots to grow deeper. More frequent, light watering only wets the surface promoting a shallow root system. Soil should be damp like a wrung out sponge. After watering, probe with a screwdriver to make certain the soil is moist down six inches or more. Do not overwater. Water established plants during dry periods.
Prune dead wood.  You can scratch the branches with your fingernail and look for green tissue.  If you see it, the stems are still viable.

Here is some information on our blog post about growing cherry laurels successfully in the landscape.
https://marylandgrows.umd.edu/2019/01/07/qa-whats-wrong-with-my-cherry-laurel-shrubs/

Marian
 

Thank you for your response.  I water them pretty much daily during the hot months of Summer.  I think they were smothered a bit with the mulch perhaps but still doesn't explain to me why some are doing ok while others are thin and dying never really growing over the past 3 years of being planted.  I think they were also not planted in a good way by the nursery.  They have given me a credit for 5 dead plants.  Anyway, I see a full out laurel bush down the alley from me outside of a house and it is beautiful and would like to get the same results around my patio.

Your shrubs look like they are struggling to establish their root systems. This does not look like a disease or insect issue. This pertains to site conditions, planting techniques, care of the plants after planting, etc.
You may want to consult with the nursery about their planting process and techniques.  Here is the planting process for trees and shrubs including a video https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/planting-tree-or-shrub

Here are some reasons why plants fail to establish.  
The plants may have been weak or damaged when planted. If so, they may never overcome initial problems and will fail to thrive. https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/weak-or-damaged-plants

If the plants were balled and burlapped, were the cords removed and burlap cut loose.
If container plants - if rootbound within the container - were the roots teased apart so they could establish into surrounding soil.

 If a lot of organic matter was added to the planting holes, the organic matter could hold a lot of water creating a bathtub effect and drown the roots. Plants often "drown" in these holes because organic matter holds water like a sponge, while the surrounding clayey soil is slow to drain.

Planting too deep -Planting holes should be wider than deeper. Over time root balls can settle even further into the ground or plants are overmulched.
This situation can contribute to trees and shrubs having too much soil piled up around their trunk causing failure to establish, trunk damage, poor growth, and decline. A properly planted and established tree flares at the base of the trunk at the soil line where it joins the root system. In some cases, soil is piled up around trunks at the plant nursery prior to digging up the trees for shipment. https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/planted-too-deeply

Excess mulch - can cause bark deterioration at the soil line, rots can grow into the mulch, Light watering may only wet the mulch layer while the soil remains dry, etc. https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/excess-mulch

Watering - If there is excess mulch, a light watering may only wet the mulch layer while the soil remains dry. Daily watering is too much.
 Check the soil moisture about once a for new plants week especially during dry periods. Water deeply if needed. Move the mulch aside and check the soil moisture by probing with a screwdriver about 6 inches deep and feel with your finger. Soil should be damp to the touch.  Let the soil dry before watering again. See watering guidelines https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/watering-trees-and-shrubs 

 At this point,  the shrubs look like they may have been planted too deeply and/or over mulched. Make sure mulch is no thicker than several inches and away from the base of the trunk. Root collar excavation, which is the removal of excess soil and mulch around the root collar (base of the tree), can sometimes be helpful. Carefully remove the excess mulch or soil from the circumference of the trunk to the point where the trunk flares out into root growth.
Follow guidelines for watering and care of your shrubs. You will have to check this.

If the shrubs continue to decline, and you do not want to replant yourself, perhaps you can find another nursery to replant. Also, you may want to plant a mix of different plants (a mixed privacy screen) that match the site conditions so you do not lose the stand to a cultural, disease, or insect issue. https://extension.umd.edu/hgic/topics/plants-mixed-privacy-screens

Marian