Knowledgebase
Pepper and Bean Disease? #643520
Asked May 30, 2020, 4:52 PM EDT
Washington County Oregon
Expert Response
Thank you for the followup
That's what I suspected. The system should be run for a much longer time. Then, too, we need to look at the layout for efficiency of output.
Soaker hoses are similar to drip systems because their flow rates are very low -- gallons per hour. This is in contrast to sprinklers or a hose end application that have a high flow rate -- gallons per minute.
Thus, a soaker hose must be run a relatively long time as compared to sprinklers. The goal is to moisten the entire root system.
Here's an overview of how to use the soakers.
- Begin by planting moist rootballs into moist root media (soil or potting mix). To thoroughly moisten the rootballs, submerge them in water until bubbles top rising.
- The growing media in the planting in the raised bed (also garden plot or container) should also be moist.
- Water to settle the soil around the roots of each transplant.; don’t stomp or tamp.
- The first week or so, supplement the soaker irrigation by watering the rootballs individually.
- As the plants begin to grow and extend their roots further into the surrounding media, gradually increase run time for the soakers and, at the same time, increase the interval between consecutive irrigations.
To know just where the water went, probe with a garden trowel. On average, you want to moisten to an 8-inch depth. To determine when to water again, check the moisture content by probing with a trowel.
For instance, after my plants are well established and growing well, I run the soaker for 1.5 to 2 hours every 5 days. On particularly hot days, I may need to run a partial cycle of 45 minutes at 2 pm, this to top off the soil water. (My raised beds are filled with a 70:30 mix of garden soil and amendments.)
But your timing is likely to be different.
The important factors in how rapidly the soil will dry include the characteristics of the soil mix in the beds; sun exposure; and the prevailing weather - temperature; humidity; air circulation (light breeze or brisk wind). Keep your trowel handy to check the soil for moisture content.
Okay, let’s talk about how to layout a soaker hose. And when the water is turned on, the hose should sweat, not spray. If it sprays, the output will be uneven along the hose. Some plants will be too dry, others too wet.
Soaker hoses must be must be on a level surface. Thus, in the layout in the image where the hose comes out of the raised bed, over a potted pepper, and down to the ground is a problem. The pepper is receiving minimal if any, water. (You’ll see why if you turn on the system and watch what happens; water runs off uphill when he hose leaves the bed, and downhill when it goes over the pot, but little goes into the pot.) The water shortage is revealed in the smaller than normal leaves as well as the scorch spots on the top large leaf.
Beyond that, how many soaker hoses are hooked together end-to-end? If the total is more than 100 feet, the plants at the end are short on water.
“Tips and Techniques” may be helpful - https://gilmour.com/set-soaker-hose
Hope this is helpful.