Bosnian Pine - planted last fall - more and more dry dead needles - help! - Ask Extension
Hello Master Gardeners,
I planted a 6 foot Bosnian Pine last fall and I have been seeing more and more dead dry needles (see images).
The tree came ...
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Bosnian Pine - planted last fall - more and more dry dead needles - help! #631142
Asked May 04, 2020, 3:57 PM EDT
Hello Master Gardeners,
I planted a 6 foot Bosnian Pine last fall and I have been seeing more and more dead dry needles (see images).
The tree came in a 2.5' pot and I dug out a 5' hole. I mixed the natural clay together with equal parts compost to fill.
I watered it in well last fall. I have watered it a few times over the winter but always suspected it was still wet.
This past weekend, I dug around the root ball and sure enough it was wet all the way down.
I have trimmed off some of the badly damaged branches and am currently letting the root ball dry out.
Can you make any recommendations that will help this pine?
Thank you kindly!
Todd Peterson
Loveland, CO
Additional Information: I drove to Fossil Creek Nursery where I had purchased the pine last fall. They had recommendations which I am following. They recommended that I use a 3-prong handheld rake to rake the roots away from the outside of the root ball. They also suggested I use root stimulator (3 tablespoons per gallon of water) to prime the root ball. They also recommended that I sterilize a clippers with alcohol and clip off the mostly dead branches. They suggested I buy Cotton Burr to cover the root ball once I fill the dirt back in. I am concerned that the tree was not planted high enough, the base of the tree is about even with the ground around it. I am unable to lift it. I am not sure of the drainage in this particular spot. It is the lowest part of my backyard and the clay soil does not seem to absorb the water very well. I can use a recommendation of what kind of soil I use to re-fill the currently open area around the root ball. It has been open for a couple of days now, I am waiting for it to dry out.
Additional Information: I drove to Fossil Creek Nursery where I had purchased the pine last fall. They had recommendations which I am following. They recommended that I use a 3-prong handheld rake to rake the roots away from the outside of the root ball. They also suggested I use root stimulator (3 tablespoons per gallon of water) to prime the root ball. They also recommended that I sterilize a clippers with alcohol and clip off the mostly dead branches. They suggested I buy Cotton Burr to cover the root ball once I fill the dirt back in. I am concerned that the tree was not planted high enough, the base of the tree is about even with the ground around it. I am unable to lift it. I am not sure of the drainage in this particular spot. It is the lowest part of my backyard and the clay soil does not seem to absorb the water very well. I can use a recommendation of what kind of soil I use to re-fill the currently open area around the root ball. It has been open for a couple of days now, I am waiting for it to dry out.
Larimer County Colorado
Expert Response
Hi Todd,
Thanks for your question. A couple of comments on what you've done, plus recommendations to hopefully improve the situation.
First, the needles that are browning are not an overly significant part of the canopy. I don't know how much you removed, but it looks like it's some of the new growth, which could be attributed to the severe freeze we had in early April. It could also be from transplanting.
Here are my recommendations:
In the future, when planting trees, do not replace half the soil with organic matter or compost. This material can break down very quickly and also keep things too wet. Instead, what you take out of the hole, put back in. Removing the soil and breaking up the clods will provide enough pore space for good oxygen exchange. As time goes on, the organic matter you added will decompose and the root ball/tree may sink.
You don't need to add root stimulator. These products have not been proven to be effective on the tree's long-term health. Water is a better option.
Remove the weeds/grass at the base of the tree and add a thick layer of wood mulch, about 4-5" thick. Mulch up the root ball, but do not cover the root ball.
It's better to have the tree planted too shallowly than too deeply. You want the structural roots to be at soil grade and you should see a pronounced root/trunk flare. If you don't see these things, then you can scrape soil back, if you don't further damage the tree. It's ok if the root ball is level...but when you planted, was the base of the tree sitting on firmed soil or was it fluffy underneath? Fluffy may lead to sinking.
How are you watering and how MUCH are you watering? Did you water this fall and winter?
Thanks for your question. A couple of comments on what you've done, plus recommendations to hopefully improve the situation.
First, the needles that are browning are not an overly significant part of the canopy. I don't know how much you removed, but it looks like it's some of the new growth, which could be attributed to the severe freeze we had in early April. It could also be from transplanting.
Here are my recommendations:
In the future, when planting trees, do not replace half the soil with organic matter or compost. This material can break down very quickly and also keep things too wet. Instead, what you take out of the hole, put back in. Removing the soil and breaking up the clods will provide enough pore space for good oxygen exchange. As time goes on, the organic matter you added will decompose and the root ball/tree may sink.
You don't need to add root stimulator. These products have not been proven to be effective on the tree's long-term health. Water is a better option.
Remove the weeds/grass at the base of the tree and add a thick layer of wood mulch, about 4-5" thick. Mulch up the root ball, but do not cover the root ball.
It's better to have the tree planted too shallowly than too deeply. You want the structural roots to be at soil grade and you should see a pronounced root/trunk flare. If you don't see these things, then you can scrape soil back, if you don't further damage the tree. It's ok if the root ball is level...but when you planted, was the base of the tree sitting on firmed soil or was it fluffy underneath? Fluffy may lead to sinking.
How are you watering and how MUCH are you watering? Did you water this fall and winter?
Hi Alison,
Thank you very much for your response!
Re: your comment: "Remove the weeds/grass at the base of the tree and add a thick layer of wood mulch, about 4-5" thick. Mulch up the root ball, but do not cover the root ball."
I have attached 2 additional pix showing the base of the tree. When you say "mulch up the root ball", do you mean cover the area just outside the root ball? Would this be a circular band outside the root ball, approximately 12" wide and 5" high/thick? Is this above ground?
When I planted the tree, I did put 4-5" of mixed soil on the bottom, so I guess you could say it was fluffy. The tree is admittedly too low, it likely did sink.
During initial planting, I poured buckets of water liberally around the root ball before I shoveled the combined soil back in. I did water sparingly a few times during the winter, but it always seemed wet already. It is the low point in my back yard. When I dug around the tree this past weekend, I found that it was wet all the way down and outside the root ball, as I suspected
I am about to put natural clay soil back in and fill up the dugout area around the root ball. I will wait for your response re: "Mulch up the root ball".
Thank you again.
Todd
Thank you very much for your response!
Re: your comment: "Remove the weeds/grass at the base of the tree and add a thick layer of wood mulch, about 4-5" thick. Mulch up the root ball, but do not cover the root ball."
I have attached 2 additional pix showing the base of the tree. When you say "mulch up the root ball", do you mean cover the area just outside the root ball? Would this be a circular band outside the root ball, approximately 12" wide and 5" high/thick? Is this above ground?
When I planted the tree, I did put 4-5" of mixed soil on the bottom, so I guess you could say it was fluffy. The tree is admittedly too low, it likely did sink.
During initial planting, I poured buckets of water liberally around the root ball before I shoveled the combined soil back in. I did water sparingly a few times during the winter, but it always seemed wet already. It is the low point in my back yard. When I dug around the tree this past weekend, I found that it was wet all the way down and outside the root ball, as I suspected
I am about to put natural clay soil back in and fill up the dugout area around the root ball. I will wait for your response re: "Mulch up the root ball".
Thank you again.
Todd
Hi Todd,
Here's the thing...since this is a Bosnian pine and they really don't like wet feet and this is a low spot...would you consider moving it to another location in the yard? Looking at the photo, it hasn't rooted much from the root ball, and though it's heavy, could you possibly plant it elsewhere?
When you backfill, you will add mulch to the edges of the existing root ball. Where the root ball starts to slope down on the curve. You just want to keep mulch off the top of the root ball. The circle of mulch around the tree can be as large as you want, but the minimum diameter would be 4 feet (2 feet extending from either side of the trunk in all directions). The BETTER way to mulch would be to have it extend further beyond the canopy. The larger the mulch ring, the better. And yes, at a depth of 4-5" thick.
When you water, you'll want to put water directly on the root ball of the tree--not the surrounding soil. The roots you care about are in the root ball. These are the roots you want to encourage to grow for establishment. Since it's a 2" caliper tree (diameter of the trunk at the base), you'll apply 2-3 gallons of water every day for two weeks. Then you would water every other day for a month. Then perhaps two to three days a week through the end of the growing season.
It is a fine line between having things too soggy and too dry. Your efforts will focus on the root ball. That's where you want to determine moisture content--not the surrounding soil.
Here's the thing...since this is a Bosnian pine and they really don't like wet feet and this is a low spot...would you consider moving it to another location in the yard? Looking at the photo, it hasn't rooted much from the root ball, and though it's heavy, could you possibly plant it elsewhere?
When you backfill, you will add mulch to the edges of the existing root ball. Where the root ball starts to slope down on the curve. You just want to keep mulch off the top of the root ball. The circle of mulch around the tree can be as large as you want, but the minimum diameter would be 4 feet (2 feet extending from either side of the trunk in all directions). The BETTER way to mulch would be to have it extend further beyond the canopy. The larger the mulch ring, the better. And yes, at a depth of 4-5" thick.
When you water, you'll want to put water directly on the root ball of the tree--not the surrounding soil. The roots you care about are in the root ball. These are the roots you want to encourage to grow for establishment. Since it's a 2" caliper tree (diameter of the trunk at the base), you'll apply 2-3 gallons of water every day for two weeks. Then you would water every other day for a month. Then perhaps two to three days a week through the end of the growing season.
It is a fine line between having things too soggy and too dry. Your efforts will focus on the root ball. That's where you want to determine moisture content--not the surrounding soil.
Hi Alison,
The tree is very heavy and I really want it to be located where it is now. I heard your recommendation loud and clear.
I dug a 6" trench, 1'+ outside the root ball. I filled it with pine mulch and tapered it down from the top of the root ball. I added 1.5 gallons of water and will follow your watering instructions going forward.
I know that the trench does not extend outside the apron, but it is close. Please see the attached photo.
The nursery recommended putting cotton burr on top of the root ball. Would you agree?
Thank you so much for moving me in the correct direction.
Todd
The tree is very heavy and I really want it to be located where it is now. I heard your recommendation loud and clear.
I dug a 6" trench, 1'+ outside the root ball. I filled it with pine mulch and tapered it down from the top of the root ball. I added 1.5 gallons of water and will follow your watering instructions going forward.
I know that the trench does not extend outside the apron, but it is close. Please see the attached photo.
The nursery recommended putting cotton burr on top of the root ball. Would you agree?
Thank you so much for moving me in the correct direction.
Todd
Perfect...though you can just put the mulch on top of the soil surface, instead of digging a trench. But if you prefer this look, that's fine.
I wouldn't cover the root ball with anything. Anything on top can interfere with the movement of water into the roots. I know this is uncomfortable, but this is the latest (and greatest) research recommendations :)
I wouldn't cover the root ball with anything. Anything on top can interfere with the movement of water into the roots. I know this is uncomfortable, but this is the latest (and greatest) research recommendations :)
The uncomfortable part is learning that the recommendations from the nursery were INCORRECT!
The upside of digging that trench is now the ground below the tree has become lower, the lowest branches are no longer laying on the ground. As long as 5" of mulch piled directly against the side of the root ball is ok.
The upside of digging that trench is now the ground below the tree has become lower, the lowest branches are no longer laying on the ground. As long as 5" of mulch piled directly against the side of the root ball is ok.
Just be glad you're not a Master Gardener--they get three hours of how to plant a tree. You got the basics in just a couple of emails! :)
Keep me posted.
Keep me posted.
