Hello Liz,

Thank you for your email, and welcome to Colorado!

Before choosing a replacement tree, we need to gather some information about your yard. This is part of selecting the 'right plant for the right place', as detailed in http://cmg.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/632.pdf 

• How much sun will the location get?
  
• Is it in turf, in a mulched bed, etc?
  
• What is planted around it?
  
• How will it be watered (drip, by hand, as part of the lawn...)?
  
• How tall can the mature tree be without obstructing your mountain view?
  

Depending on the site, dwarf fruit trees may be a good option.  Here are some things to consider:  http://cmg.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/771.pdf

Here are a number of CSU references on fruit trees and other small trees:

• Small Deciduous Trees  http://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/07418.pdf
  
• Index to Tree Fruit publications:  http://cmg.colostate.edu/pubs/TreeFruit.html
  
• Backyard Orchard - Stone Fruits http://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/02804.pdf
  
• Backyard Orchard - Apples and Pears http://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/02800.pdf 
  
• Here is a link to the USDA fact sheet on Chokecherry to use for confirming the ID of your current tree  https://webarchive.library.unt.edu/eot2008/<personal data hidden>817/http://plants.usda.gov/factsheet/pdf/fs_pr... .  Chokecherry rarely reaches a 30 foot height.
  

FINALLY, here is the link to the Fact Sheet on Colorado Gardening for Newcomers:  http://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/07220.pdf.

Let me know if I can help further in your decision process.  Best regards,

Hi,
We currently have an apple and a pear tree doing well in the planned location along the outside of the turf line.  It is very sunny and field like but will get water via the lawn sprinkler system. 20 feet would be about the max to avoid obstructing the view but we are ok with some pruning.
I have attached some pics of the apple and pear tree....wondering if you know what types they are?  Apples are very good with balanced sweet and tartness. Pears have not ripened and we wonder if they are just late varieties?
thanks so much,
Liz

Sorry duplicate pear pics. Here are a few more

Hello,

Thank you for the photos and additional information. I cannot tell what the pear variety is. Based on the shape of left-most apple in the photo, I'm wondering about Macintosh; is the flavor and texture consistent with that?

From the photos of the apple tree, I see that it has some symptoms consistent with Fire Blight (the dead leaves on branch tips). Fire blight is a bacterial infection that can infect pome fruit plants (apples, pears) that was especially bad along the Front Range this year. For your yard, this has two implications:

1. You will need to prune out the affected branches during the winter, cutting 8-12 inches below any sign of infection (scorched leaves, cankered wood), cutting back to a branch angle. If we have another cool, wet April/May, you may want to consider a preventive chemical spray at blossom break. See the CSU Fact Sheet on Fire Blight for details: http://extension.colostate.edu/docs/pubs/garden/02907.pdf.
   
2. Since there is Fire Blight in your yard, I recommend choosing either a stone fruit tree (cherry, plum, etc) or an apple that is moderately resistant to Fire Blight (listed in above Fact Sheet).  A dwarf cherry, peach or plum would fit your size limitations.  They all prefer well drained soil, and don't tolerate being overwatered, so your site that is outside the lawn and on a slight incline should work.  For best fruit production they will benefit from structural pruning as described in the Garden Notes on Growing Fruit Trees in Colorado http://cmg.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/771.pdf.
   

Happy planting!