Apple trees take about 5 years to reach maturity. This means until then they might produce little or no fruit. If the Honeycrisp you planted was a full-sized tree, it takes 7 or more years to produce apples sometimes up to 10 years. If it was a dwarf or semi-dwarf, it should take 3-5 years. However, if a semi-dwarf tree was planted too deeply, above the graft, then you may have created a full-sized tree, and your wait could be long.
Here are some other factors affecting fruit production.
Sunlight: without adequate sunlight, your tree will produce fewer flowers and fewer apples. Apples need full sun to produce well. Apple trees need at least 8 hours of sun per day during the growing season
Pollinators: Without bees, your tree will produce flowers, but few apples. Apples require two cultivars for successful pollination. Plant trees 6 to 20 feet apart - the lower end of the scale for dwarf trees, more for semi-dwarf, and the most for standard size trees. Apples must be cross pollinated. Therefore, you must plant two different varieties if you want to produce fruit. The main agents that transfer pollen are honeybees. If you do not see 3 to 4 honeybees per tree visiting the flowers, your fruit set may be less than desired. In order for pollination to be successful the flowers must receive healthy pollen at the proper time. The bloom periods of the varieties must overlap. Bees are the main method for the transfer of pollen between flowers. Anything that interferes with bee activity, such as insecticides, cold weather, rain or wind will reduce pollination.
Honeycrisp apple trees bloom in mid-season and must be pollinated by another mid-season blooming apple tree. Each type of apple tree has a short bloom time in the spring in which the tree must be pollinated, usually by bees. This bloom time lasts about a week for each different type of apple tree. But not all apple trees bloom at the same time. Almost all apple trees bloom within a three- to four-week period in the spring. When your tree is pollinated, you must have another type of apple tree within 500 feet that blooms the same week(s) yours does. So apple trees have been divided into three time frames: early season, mid-season, and late season. Some kinds of apple trees that also bloom mid-season and will pollinate your Honeycrisp are Cortland, Regent, Red Haralson, Red Delicious, Haralred, Gala (blooms early to mid-season), Honeygold, Golden Delicious, Jonagold, Fireside, and Sweet Sixteen.
Overfertilization: If the tree is receiving high amounts of nitrogen, it will produce a lot of tree but not blooms. Fertilization can come from what you put on your grass. Rain can move the nitrogen down past the grass roots where the trees can take it up. Apply extra fertilizer to the lawn within 5 feet of the spread of the tree's branches. Be careful, because under fertilization can also occur. The need for fertilizer in the home orchard should be based on soil test results and annual shoot growth. Bearing fruit trees should average 12 to 18 inches of shoot growth per year. Nonbearing young trees should average 18 to 30 inches. If your trees have less growth than this, then increase the nitrogen rate by 25% the next spring. If they have greater amount of annual shoot growth it would indicate either you are over pruning or over fertilizing.

Heavy winter pruning will also stimulate excessive growth. Fruit trees should be pruned each winter. However, indiscriminate heading cuts will delay flowering and fruiting. Heading cuts are the main culprit. Before pruning your trees make sure you know where the tree produces flowers and how to prune to encourage flower production. In general, thinning out cuts (those that remove an entire branch back to its point of origin) are less stimulating and encourage more flower production. Heading cuts (the removal of a portion of the branch) will stimulate more vegetative growth and delay flowering. In extreme cases continual heading cuts will totally prevent flowering in apples.
Another cause for lack of fruit production is frost damage. The flowers of fruit trees are very sensitive to late spring frosts. Temperatures much below 29 degrees F will prevent fruit formation. The frost does not have to occur during full bloom for the damage to occur. Once the flower buds begin to swell and develop there is a risk of frost damage. You may not even see the damage, because the flowers may open normally but be unable to set fruit. If you suspect that you have had a frost wait till the following day to examine the flowers. Dark brown to black centers will probably not set fruit that year. Therefore, plant fruit trees on the most frost free section of your land. Look for areas that are either close to the house or slightly elevated. Do not plant trees in low areas of the yard. Extremes in temperatures during December, January, February and March can also damage the flowers. Warm winter temperatures (relative to normal) followed by sudden drops usually kill the flowers while they are still dormant.

Another reason for no fruit includes the use of the insecticide carbonyl during bloom. The insecticide carbaryl if applied to apple trees during bloom or the first month after bloom will cause the fruit to drop. If a small portion of the fruit drops, then you will have less fruit to thin. However, this practice can remove all the fruit from the tree if carbaryl is applied too frequently or at too high a rate. This problem occurs most frequently when using general purpose spray mixtures so read the label of all pesticides carefully and avoid the use of carbaryl during this period.

Here are a some publications that you may find useful.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/fruit/apples-in-home-garden/

http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/2016/02/grow-fruit-trees-confidence-low-input-way

Hope this helps!

Prune every year in late winter or very early spring starting the year after planting. If trees grew well the previous summer some thinning of laterals may be necessary. More than 5 to 7 laterals at this stage may cause crowding. Excessive numbers of branches will create shade and shaded wood will not produce flower buds and fruit.

How do you select branches to remove? First, remove any oversized branches. Oversized branches will create internal shade problems that limit fruit production in the future. Any branch more than half the diameter of the trunk where it joins the trunk is a candidate for removal.

Be sure to remove the offending branch completely. When removing a branch, cut it back to the outer edge of the branch collar at its point of attachment.

You should also remove excessively low branches. Branches less than 20 to 22 inches above the ground will make mowing difficult and will likely produce inferior-quality fruit.

Some limb spreading may be necessary in the second spring. Limbs can be positioned at the desired angle simply by tying them down using the tree stake as an anchor. Check the leader to be sure it is properly tied to the stake. Once again, don’t remove the tips of branches. There is no easier way to delay and reduce fruiting.

The basic pruning rules practiced in the first two years of the tree’s life don’t change as the tree ages, although the size of some pruning cuts might. Continue to train the leader to the stake and eliminate any over­sized branches that develop.

Some branches that may not have been too vigorous in years one and two may become problems, growing at a much faster rate than other parts of the tree. These excessively large branches will need to be re­moved by cutting them out completely. Some shade problems may de­velop as growing branches crowd each other. Again, rather than cutting back all branches; eliminate a branch or two to prevent shading.

Spread limbs that are upright growing to create strong, wide crotch an­gles. Start early - clothes pins used on new branches are effective limb spreading tools. Other options include the use of anchors and tie-downs, limb spreaders (above) or weights.  

Balance is the key. Branches should be relatively uniform in size and evenly distributed around the trunk. The top of the tree should be nar­row compared to the lower portion, as shading of the lower branches will reduce fruit production. The trunk or leader should be straight to reduce shading on the lower branches. Branches should be positioned at an appropriate angle to intercept the most sunlight possible. The key tools for achieving these goals are a tree-training stake, whole-limb pruning and limb spreading.

Here are some publications you will find useful.

https://extension.unh.edu/resources/files/Resource000588_Rep610.pdf

http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/node/954

Hope this helps!