Why did my Japanese Maple not leaf out this spring? - Ask Extension
In 2012 or so I "rescued" a Japanese Maple sapling that had been thrown into the woods along with several other trees still in their plastic container...
Knowledgebase
Why did my Japanese Maple not leaf out this spring? #398556
Asked May 08, 2017, 2:33 PM EDT
In 2012 or so I "rescued" a Japanese Maple sapling that had been thrown into the woods along with several other trees still in their plastic containers by an unscrupulous developer who discarded leftover landscaping following completion of a subdivision. Although it was barely alive, I planted my "rescue maple" and nursed it tenderly. It practically doubled in size over the next four years, from about three feet tall to almost six feet now, although it is still very much a sapling. It has been robust and fully leaved each year since. But last fall the tree didn't lose its leaves in the fall. And this spring it never leafed out. A few of last fall's leaves are still gray and curled on the branches. When I researched the internet about the problem several weeks ago, several suggestions ranged from lack of water to a parasitic infestation, but I have not had to manually water this tree since its first year and close inspection shows no borer activity or other evidence of infestation that I could recognize. The tree is not dead, as there is robust leaf activity at the base of the trunk on the ground. There is some evidence of deer rutting on the trunk, but nothing that girdles the tree completely. The tree is near to, but not within, the drip line of a black walnut, so I don't think the maple's malaise is from black walnut toxin. I have a baby fig tree a lot closer to a black walnut and it leafed out beautifully this spring. I live in Owings Mills on two acres of largely undisturbed land in a home that was constructed in 1862. When the USGS needed a soil sample in the vicinity of Soldiers Delight (I live on the northeast corner of Deer Park and Lyons Mill roads), they chose my property since my land is largely the way it was 150 years ago. When I bought the house in 2001, a Bing cherry tree was in the location of the Japanese maple, but after my first year here the cherry stopped producing and eventually died, as did a pear and two apple trees on the property. I surmised at the time that the fruit trees were all planted when the house was built in 1862 and had simply reached the end of their lifespans, and I still believe that to be the case. The Japanese maple gets strong morning light and dappled sunlight the rest of the day from a pair of giant oak trees that grace my front yard, one of which is in contention to be the third largest white oak in Maryland. My yard was certified as a Baywise garden in 2015, so there are no pesticides or fertilizers that could be impacting the Japanese maple. I work at home if anyone would like to stop by and take a look at this remarkable piece of property. I am attaching some photos of my little acer. If you can call me or email with any suggestions of how to rescue my "rescue maple" from the brink of whatever is afflicting it, I would most appreciate your help. Thank you! .
Baltimore County Maryland
Expert Response
In general, Japanese maples are tolerant to juglone. However, Japanese maples are subject to many environmental stressors such as drought, poor drainage, too much moisture, temperature extremes, too much mulch, planting too deeply, soil compaction, etc. Look at the attached publication http://extension.umd.edu/sites/default/files/_images/programs/hgic/Publications/HG86%20Common%20Abio...
Scratch the branches with your fingernail and look for green tissue. If you see it, the branches may still be viable. Otherwise prune dead branches. Some Japanese maples are grafted. If so, the growth may be coming from the understock of the tree. You can let this grow and the tree will be a shrubby maple.
At this point, prune dead wood, make sure mulch is no thicker than several inches and keep away from the base of the trunk. and keep the tree well watered during dry periods. There is not mulch else you can do.
mh
Scratch the branches with your fingernail and look for green tissue. If you see it, the branches may still be viable. Otherwise prune dead branches. Some Japanese maples are grafted. If so, the growth may be coming from the understock of the tree. You can let this grow and the tree will be a shrubby maple.
At this point, prune dead wood, make sure mulch is no thicker than several inches and keep away from the base of the trunk. and keep the tree well watered during dry periods. There is not mulch else you can do.
mh
Thank you very much, M.H.
Out of all the possibilities in the article you attached, it can only be trunk damage (from deer rutting) or drought stress from last fall. I scratched a small branch with my thumbnail, and it is not green underneath, yet the branch is pliable, not brittle. I don't want a shrubby maple. I want a tree. Should I just take it out? If I prune all the dead branches, it will be remove a lot more than 30% of the crown. Thoughts?
It's not possible to revive dead branches, so you have no choice but to prune them off.
Obviously, the roots are still alive and fairly strong. If you want a tree, not a shrub effect, simply prune or knock off all the new base shoots except the strongest, most vigorous one. This will encourage the tree to put all its energies into that one shoot. In a few years, you should have a fairly decent small tree again.
Don't let this tree get stressed.
Be sure to water this tree well for the next 2 year whenever there is a drought. Droughts can occur in spring or fall, not just summer. We had a very droughty fall last year, and dry falls are very hard on plants because they don't have enough moisture around the roots to get them through the winter.
ECN
Obviously, the roots are still alive and fairly strong. If you want a tree, not a shrub effect, simply prune or knock off all the new base shoots except the strongest, most vigorous one. This will encourage the tree to put all its energies into that one shoot. In a few years, you should have a fairly decent small tree again.
Don't let this tree get stressed.
Be sure to water this tree well for the next 2 year whenever there is a drought. Droughts can occur in spring or fall, not just summer. We had a very droughty fall last year, and dry falls are very hard on plants because they don't have enough moisture around the roots to get them through the winter.
ECN