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Autumn brilliance serviceberry not blooming/leafing #398297

Asked May 07, 2017, 2:35 PM EDT

Thanks for your advice. I bought three 5' bareroot Autumn Brilliance shrub form serviceberry & planted them 2 yrs ago. They seemed to do okay up until now. 1st anniversary they bloomed, leafed out & berried. Seemed ok until now - only 1 is blooming/leafing out. They're in a sunny area near my driveway. In summer 1 of them receives part shade. 1 of them receives a bit more water than the others, it's near my neighbors house & their roof deposits water there after a rain. But generally they are in similar conditions, spaced 8-9 ft apart in a slight V formation. When we had the thaw in Feb it seemed they formed buds at that time. If they budded and froze why is 1 blooming? Or if the spot is too wet why is 1 doing great & the two furthest apart not? It's the 1 in center that's doing okay. Seems to be a bit of rabbit damage on 1 of the sad ones but the other 2 were wrapped with paper tree wrap, incl the other sad tree. Should I panic? How can I determine if they're indeed alive & if I should consider moving them? They did okay for a year

Anoka County Minnesota

Expert Response

 Autumn brilliance serviceberry are nice shrubs. The following site has information about serviceberry. http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/trees-shrubs/serviceberry-juneberry/index.html  Service berry has limited drought tolerance, and does not withstand ponding. How quickly does the soil drain the roof runoff?  The tree should be moved if the roof runoff on the site does not drain quickly. Trees will bloom best with the most sunlight. Fruit trees that are normally winter hardy may suffer bud damage when they start to come out of winter dormancy. The temperature at which fruit buds are injured depends primarily on their stage of development. As flowers begin to swell and expand into blossoms, they become less resistant to freeze injury. Not all blossoms on a tree are equally tender. Resistance to freeze injury varies within and between trees. Buds that develop slowly tend to be more resistant. The tree in partial shade may bloom later than the full sun trees. As a result, some buds are usually killed at higher temperatures, while others are resistant at much lower temperatures. Scratch swollen leaf buds with your fingernails and look for a green color to indicate life. Gray or brown color leaf buds are dead. Branches that are alive will bend easily. Dead branches will snap off. Prune serviceberry in late winter (February-early April). Spring or summer pruning increases chances for infection and spread of the bacterial disease fireblight. Autumn or early winter pruning is more likely to result in drying and die-back at pruning sites. This disease is more evident in warm and wet seasons and looks like the tips of the branches have caught fire and retreated into a hook position called the shepherd's crook. The bark at the base of the infected twigs is sunken and cracked and forms oozing canker visited by bees. Fire blight is spread from plant to plant by rain, wind or pruning tools. It survives the winters in cankers and branches and thrives when conditions are right. The service berry diagnostic site is found at the following address. http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/plant/deciduous/serviceberry/

Rabbits like to eat the bark of fruit trees in winter. Their teeth cut through the branches at clean 45-degree angle. The branch may not survive if most the bark is cut around the branch. The following site will explain some of the exclusion methods to prevent this damage next winter.http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/wildlife/rabbits-and-trees-and-shrubs/

 



Pat M MN master gardener and TCA Replied May 07, 2017, 8:05 PM EDT

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