Hello,

Thanks for your question and the supplemental photos! Your dog is beautiful and seemingly well-behaved. I wish my beagles would sit for photos :)

A few questions for you...

1. Do you have water (irrigation) in this area to get the grass to grow? Or do you plan on using mother nature? If no water, is there a way for you to water to get the seed established?

2. Would you be willing to section off the area in order to get the grass to grow on one half...and then repeat?

3. Does the dog just use the space for recreational purposes or do you have any other foot traffic (kids, etc.)? Do you play ball or other games with the dog?

4. If I recommend turf, would you seed or sod? Do you have a preference on what kind of turf you want? Your elevation isn't too high that species selection becomes difficult.

5. What is the total square footage of the area?

Have you considered a thick layer of wood mulch? Or do you want something green?

The problem with groundcovers is that they they have traffic tolerance, but not a lot...and they are slower to recover. So using turf is a better option in terms of vegetation. But mulch is also something to consider. It all depends on what you want. 

Thanks for answering my questions! 

Hi Alison, Thank you for your quick and very helpful response. It sounds like turf is the way to go... I'll answer your questions, in sequence: 1. We will use a sprinkler & hose, as may be necessary, to supplement what Mother Nature does not provide. 2. Yes, we can section of an area at a time. 3. The only real traffic is the dog. He does run around (very actively, at times), chases balls, etc. He's about 75 lbs and Husky/Lab mix... his Husky paws are probably harder on a yard than some dogs. 4. We would most probably seed, as sod is out of our very limited budget. Whichever type of turf would do best... between the sloping and shade, and the ability the turf to stand up better/recover faster from the effects of the dog... I would defer to your considered expert opinion. 5. Area is approx 2,000 sq ft. Please let me know if I can answer any other questions, or if I can provide you with any other information (add'l photos, soil samples, ???). Thank you SO very much for your help! Kindest regards, Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the additional information. I appreciate the detail.

First, it's a big space, so you will need to determine if you want to put grass on the entire area. That may or may not be necessary. Mulch is also a great option. I have two beagles and they constantly patrol the fence. I gave up growing grass and just put in a thick mulch strip. It works well and keeps the soil from becoming muddy and it's less to water and maintain.

I would recommend you plant a Kentucky bluegrass or a KBG/perennial ryegrass mix. These are both good cool season grasses that can tolerate heavy foot traffic. In fact, this mix is planted at the Broncos stadium. The bluegrass can recover from traffic because it grows via rhizomes and the perennial ryegrass, though a clump-former, germinates quickly and can fill in gaps when seeding.

However, it is very important to note that NO GRASS (or groundcover) will thrive without supplemental irrigation and fertilizer after establishment. These two things are what keeps the grass growing and recovering from the traffic. That's why you should consider the size of area you want to seed, since you'll be using a hose and sprinkler to irrigate.

We always suggest buying high-quality seed from a local seed dealer. It doesn't cost any more than the seed you can buy at a box store or hardware store, plus it's better quality and had zero weed seeds. Seed dealers include Arkansas Valley (Denver), Pawnee Buttes (Greeley) and Sharp Brothers (Greeley). Sometimes the co-op off Hwy 14 also sells bulk seed, which they purchase from one of the above dealers. If you go to a dealer, you'll probably have to buy a 50 pound bag, but it keeps for a couple years, as long as it's kept cool and dry.

To seed your lawn:

1. With an aerator (one that pulls plugs), make lots and lots and lots of holes in the areas. The goal is to “Swiss cheese” the lawn and have the holes on 2” centers.
1. If you want to save the expense from renting an aerator, you could try to use a pitchfork or other tool (foot aerator) to poke holes in to the ground. Again, lots and lots of holes. Make the holes wide enough for seed to fall into.
2. The seeding rate for Kentucky bluegrass is 4-6 pounds/1000 square feet. You can also do a bluegrass/perennial ryegrass mix (5-7 pounds/1000 square feet).
3. Apply the seed using a fertilizer spreader, open wide enough to let seed fall. Then gently rake the seed and try to get it into the aeration holes. Don’t put down too much seed…only one or two seeds need to fall into the holes.
4. Water to keep the seed coat moist, perhaps once or twice a day, depending on the temperature. It’s important to not let the seed coat dry out.
5. The best time to seed is in the fall, because soil temperatures are warm, but you can seed in spring…just be patient. Seed may take 14-21 days to germinate (or longer).
6. DO NOT SEED if a crabgrass preventer has been applied in spring. If crabgrass preventer is applied, then seeding must wait until mid-August.
7. You can mow the lawn as normal, even over the seeded areas. Mowing will help push seed into the aeration holes and ensure better soil-seed contact.
8. Be sure to mow new seedlings as they grow—mowing will encourage “tillering” which helps the turf fill in more quickly.

And I would recommend you plan on seeding each year as thin areas appear...again, with regular water and fertilizer, you will have a more dense, tolerant turf system for the traffic. Please let me know if you have other questions!