Red Maple Tree leaves are curling up - Ask Extension
My small red maple tree bloomed well this spring but now it's leaves are drying up and curling. I havetried pesticides and given it extra water, but...
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Red Maple Tree leaves are curling up #265955
Asked July 29, 2015, 4:52 PM EDT
My small red maple tree bloomed well this spring but now it's leaves are drying up and curling. I have
tried pesticides and given it extra water, but branch by branch the leaves are dying. I don't know if
I should trim the tree at this time.
I am attaching pictures. It seemed to be doing well up until the past month.
tried pesticides and given it extra water, but branch by branch the leaves are dying. I don't know if
I should trim the tree at this time.
I am attaching pictures. It seemed to be doing well up until the past month.
Suffolk County New York
Expert Response
Dear gardener,
How old is your tree, and how long ago was it planted in that location? From your photos, it appears there may have been mulch piled against the trunk. Is that the case, or do you know why there is a moisture mark at the base of the tree?
I will await your reply before commenting on what may be troubling the tree. However, please do not prune a sick tree. Also, please do not apply any more chemicals. Pesticides should only be used after confirming the pest or disease that requires control.
How old is your tree, and how long ago was it planted in that location? From your photos, it appears there may have been mulch piled against the trunk. Is that the case, or do you know why there is a moisture mark at the base of the tree?
I will await your reply before commenting on what may be troubling the tree. However, please do not prune a sick tree. Also, please do not apply any more chemicals. Pesticides should only be used after confirming the pest or disease that requires control.
Hi, the tree is about 8 or more years and was a twig in a pot when it was given to me. It has been at that location since we got it. No new mulch has been added for about 2 years. The moisture at the base was from it being watered. I tried to loosen the ground around it yesterday, and it does seem root bound.
Unfortunetly before I received your response, I put a small amount of "holly tone" and watered again yesterday.
Dear gardener,
Thank you for the additional information. Please allow me to offer some basic tree care advice before addressing your Japanese maple. But first, avoid disturbing the soil around established trees. Loosening the ground will only cause more damage to the roots.
Fertilizers should be used only if a specific need has been identified. This requires a soil test. (Tests are inexpensive and available through your state extension offices.) Manufacturers and retailers would like you to use their products all the time as "insurance"; but the fact is, unnecessary fertilizers only run off into ground water, causing pollution and wasting your money.
Read all labels carefully. HollyTone is labeled for use in spring and fall. Sick plants should never be fertilized, and most plants should not be fertilized in high summer. The reason is that it forces new top growth when the roots are struggling to survive.
Likewise, pesticides should not be used unless you have a positive identification of the specific insect or disease. There are no "one size fits all" products for ailing plants.
Now to your maple. It appears that the tree may have been planted poorly 8 years ago and the effects are just now beginning to be evident. Give it the "wiggle test": Try to move the trunk a little. After 8 years, there should be no movement at all at the base.
There are several common mistakes that often kill trees. The first is planting the root ball without first gently washing the potting medium off the roots, and "tickling" them loose in a spoked wheel pattern. Failure to do so can cause the roots to girdle (strangle) the trunk as it grows.
A second point involves "amending the soil" in the planting hole. The soil should be the native soil that was dug out. There is an excellent article about this topic at http://puyallup.wsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/soil-amendments.pdf
The planting hole itself should be at least twice as wide as the roots, and not quite as deep. It appears your tree may have been planted too deeply. The flare (where the trunk widens slightly to meet the roots) needs to be visible above ground level. Again, mulch should never touch the trunk. These steps will prevent rot at the base of the tree.
At this point your goal will be to keep the roots alive until fall when you can replant the tree. If there is no rain, water deeply once a week when the soil feels dry about 2 inches down. The soil should feel damp but not wet at that level. The finger test at 2-inch depth is the most reliable way to avoid over- or under-watering the tree; both can be lethal. Avoid shallow "sprinkling" which encourages shallow roots that dry out faster. Protect the soil with 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch across the entire root zone, (always keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
When the leaves have fallen (perhaps early October in your location), dig up the tree with as many lateral roots as possible. Re-dig the hole several inches wider and replant the tree at the appropriate height. You may need to place some plain garden soil at the bottom of the hole, tamping it down to raise the level of the root flare. Refill the hole with no soil amendments. Cover the surface with 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch and water as indicated above.
Thank you for the additional information. Please allow me to offer some basic tree care advice before addressing your Japanese maple. But first, avoid disturbing the soil around established trees. Loosening the ground will only cause more damage to the roots.
Fertilizers should be used only if a specific need has been identified. This requires a soil test. (Tests are inexpensive and available through your state extension offices.) Manufacturers and retailers would like you to use their products all the time as "insurance"; but the fact is, unnecessary fertilizers only run off into ground water, causing pollution and wasting your money.
Read all labels carefully. HollyTone is labeled for use in spring and fall. Sick plants should never be fertilized, and most plants should not be fertilized in high summer. The reason is that it forces new top growth when the roots are struggling to survive.
Likewise, pesticides should not be used unless you have a positive identification of the specific insect or disease. There are no "one size fits all" products for ailing plants.
Now to your maple. It appears that the tree may have been planted poorly 8 years ago and the effects are just now beginning to be evident. Give it the "wiggle test": Try to move the trunk a little. After 8 years, there should be no movement at all at the base.
There are several common mistakes that often kill trees. The first is planting the root ball without first gently washing the potting medium off the roots, and "tickling" them loose in a spoked wheel pattern. Failure to do so can cause the roots to girdle (strangle) the trunk as it grows.
A second point involves "amending the soil" in the planting hole. The soil should be the native soil that was dug out. There is an excellent article about this topic at http://puyallup.wsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/soil-amendments.pdf
The planting hole itself should be at least twice as wide as the roots, and not quite as deep. It appears your tree may have been planted too deeply. The flare (where the trunk widens slightly to meet the roots) needs to be visible above ground level. Again, mulch should never touch the trunk. These steps will prevent rot at the base of the tree.
At this point your goal will be to keep the roots alive until fall when you can replant the tree. If there is no rain, water deeply once a week when the soil feels dry about 2 inches down. The soil should feel damp but not wet at that level. The finger test at 2-inch depth is the most reliable way to avoid over- or under-watering the tree; both can be lethal. Avoid shallow "sprinkling" which encourages shallow roots that dry out faster. Protect the soil with 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch across the entire root zone, (always keeping it a few inches away from the trunk.
When the leaves have fallen (perhaps early October in your location), dig up the tree with as many lateral roots as possible. Re-dig the hole several inches wider and replant the tree at the appropriate height. You may need to place some plain garden soil at the bottom of the hole, tamping it down to raise the level of the root flare. Refill the hole with no soil amendments. Cover the surface with 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch and water as indicated above.
With a bit of luck, your tree should begin to recover next year. The only other treatment I would suggest is to apply 1/2 to 1-inch of finished compost over the root zone in late fall or early spring. It can be placed under or over the mulch. This is generally all the fertilizer that trees and shrubs need.
Thank you so much for time and effort. Hopefully my little tree will survive.
You are welcome, and good luck. She seems to be a pretty tough gal and may come through for you yet!
