Dying Birch Trees - Ask Extension
Why are my River Birch and Whitespire Birch dying? The tree attempts to leaf out in the spring but the leaves never reach full size. They then begin...
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Dying Birch Trees #211929
Asked September 11, 2014, 12:51 PM EDT
Why are my River Birch and Whitespire Birch dying? The tree attempts to leaf out in the spring but the leaves never reach full size. They then begin to curl, turn lime green and yellow with brown edges, eventually losing most of the leaves by August. We irrigate from Earl Lake.
Livingston County Michigan
Expert Response
I am not sure from your question if you have one or two trees. You write, "...River Birch AND Whitespire birch..." For the sake of this discussion, let's decide to talk about one tree.
'Whitespire' is a river birch. This is what it takes for them to grow well: moist, fertile soil with a soil pH below 6.5, ideally about 6.0.The picture shows chlorotic leaves that are burned on the edges. Chlorosis happens when the soil pH is too high. Chlorotic leaves are light green or yellow green with darker green veins. That's what your picture shows.
You did not give any particulars like how long it has been planted or where it is planted so I have no history. I also don't know how many years the tree has been doing this. Mulching the soil can be of some benefit if the soil is bare. It insulates the soil and prevents top evaporation. Trees grow best when the soil temperature is between 50 and 80 degrees.
But I would think that you need to get a soil test to determine what the pH and nutrients are. If this alkaline soil, it take a number of years to change the pH. You can buy a soil test online at: www.msusoiltest.com and follow the link to the MSU Bookstore. The test cost $25. When you get your results back, give me a call and we can discuss the results. I can open your test online with your soil test code. You don't have to bring it in; just call. Gretchen 517/546-3950
'Whitespire' is a river birch. This is what it takes for them to grow well: moist, fertile soil with a soil pH below 6.5, ideally about 6.0.The picture shows chlorotic leaves that are burned on the edges. Chlorosis happens when the soil pH is too high. Chlorotic leaves are light green or yellow green with darker green veins. That's what your picture shows.
You did not give any particulars like how long it has been planted or where it is planted so I have no history. I also don't know how many years the tree has been doing this. Mulching the soil can be of some benefit if the soil is bare. It insulates the soil and prevents top evaporation. Trees grow best when the soil temperature is between 50 and 80 degrees.
But I would think that you need to get a soil test to determine what the pH and nutrients are. If this alkaline soil, it take a number of years to change the pH. You can buy a soil test online at: www.msusoiltest.com and follow the link to the MSU Bookstore. The test cost $25. When you get your results back, give me a call and we can discuss the results. I can open your test online with your soil test code. You don't have to bring it in; just call. Gretchen 517/546-3950
I have a total of six birches surrounding my deck close to my home. Two of them have a white birch no peeling bark and four of them have a brown bark that peels and resembles paper. They were balled and bur lapped and planted approximately 15 years ago. There is a hedge of Hicks Yews planted in and around them as well as numerous large white Hydrangea bushes.. They started having trouble over 5 years ago. First one tree then the other. Ironically one of the brown bark Birches does not seem to be in as bad as shape as the Birches on either side.
I did have a soil test conducted but I am not sure how to read it. The soil code number through MSU is B99B9L. Could you please advise on the appropriate action, what time of year to do it and if the tress are to far gone?
Thank You,
Shawn Bonine
I did have a soil test conducted but I am not sure how to read it. The soil code number through MSU is B99B9L. Could you please advise on the appropriate action, what time of year to do it and if the tress are to far gone?
Thank You,
Shawn Bonine
Looking at your soil test, both phosphorus and potassium are vey high. That means you do not need to fertilize them. The soil pH is 7.2. Even though that seems to be not that far removed from 6.0, it is quite a distance. It is a logarithmic scale and the farther you are away the target, the bigger the distance.
It could be a moisture problem unless you are checking soil moisture at four or so inches down. There is a great deal of competition from other plants for water because the plants are close together. If you check now, because it has rained, it may not be dry today. We did not have much rain in August. The tree roots are in the top 18-24 inches of soil and if only the top is damp,
You need to adjust the pH like the information on your soil test: "pH sensitive tree- add 1 3/4 lb. sulfur per 100 sq. feet." So this next month and again in April After that, either pick spring OR fall and apply sulfur at that time. Check moisture for depth, especially in the middle of summer. The amount that you are watering your lawn will not go deep enought for the trees. Make sure there are 3 inches of organic mulch. This is worth a try.
You can also call me at: 517/546-3950 Gretchen
It could be a moisture problem unless you are checking soil moisture at four or so inches down. There is a great deal of competition from other plants for water because the plants are close together. If you check now, because it has rained, it may not be dry today. We did not have much rain in August. The tree roots are in the top 18-24 inches of soil and if only the top is damp,
You need to adjust the pH like the information on your soil test: "pH sensitive tree- add 1 3/4 lb. sulfur per 100 sq. feet." So this next month and again in April After that, either pick spring OR fall and apply sulfur at that time. Check moisture for depth, especially in the middle of summer. The amount that you are watering your lawn will not go deep enought for the trees. Make sure there are 3 inches of organic mulch. This is worth a try.
You can also call me at: 517/546-3950 Gretchen
