Thank you for asking.  I am including information from the University of Minnesota SULIS site on evergreens.  In bold print is a warning about evergreens that do not have enough space for roots to spread out.  They may grow smaller, weaker or uneven.

Evergreen Trees and Shrubs

Evergreen trees and shrubs are an integral part of landscapes in the Upper Midwest because of the many unique benefits they have to offer. They make excellent screens, reduce noise and are key elements of windbreaks. They also provide shelter and food for a variety of wildlife. Their foliage is present even in winter, providing year-round interest in landscapes.

To look their best throughout their life, evergreens need proper planting, watering, fertilizing, mulching and pruning as soon as they are planted in the landscape.

Click on any of the following headings and link to chapters that explain selection and maintenance of deciduous shrubs: Selecting Evergreen Trees and Shrubs Purchasing and Planting Evergreen Trees and Shrubs Maintenance of Evergreen Trees and Shrubs
Pruning
Watering
Mulching
Fertilizing
Winter Protection
Selecting Evergreen Trees and Shrubs Select evergreen species based not only on their appearance, but on their purpose and mature size. Too often, evergreens are not given enough space to reach their natural mature size, and end up crowding other plants, sidewalks, and buildings. Therefore, the first step in choosing an evergreen is to analyze the site conditions and to place evergreens as part of an overall sustainable design. For more information on evaluating the existing site, see Site Survey For more on selecting trees based on site and plant characteristics:
Elements of Design While many evergreens are slow growing, others can grow quite quickly once established. Most evergreens, such as spruce trees, look best if allowed to grow naturally with no shearing or regular pruning. Be sure there is enough room on all sides for such trees to spread out and achieve their mature beauty. Also be sure there is adequate room for roots to spread out. If tree roots are confined to a small area because of buildings, walks, driveways, roads, etc. (roots will not grow under hard surfaces), the root system will eventually be too small to provide for the size of the tree. The tree will then stop growing, decline, and eventually die.

For foundation plantings or shrub beds, there are many dwarf evergreens from which to choose. Be sure to match plants with the light, moisture and soil conditions in your landscape. Most evergreens require well-drained soil. Arborvitae, however, can tolerate wetter areas. Most evergreens also prefer a sunny location to do well. Arborvitae can tolerate light shade, and Japanese yew and hemlock will grow in shade. In fact, yew and hemlock will burn in afternoon winter sun and are best planted on north or east sides of buildings. From a design standpoint, avoid planting single columnar or pyramidal evergreens on corners of buildings, as they will accentuate the vertical line and move the eye up and out of the landscape. For more information:
Choosing Landscape Evergreens Purchasing and Planting Evergreen Trees and Shrubs Unlike deciduous trees and shrubs, evergreens are rarely available as bare root stock, except as very small seedlings. They are usually available throughout the growing season as balled and burlapped or container-grown plants. When selecting plants at the nursery, be sure the foliage looks healthy and is not "off color" (graying, yellowing, browning). Once an evergreen needle is brown, it will not turn green again. Browning needles may be evidence of drought stress or a disease. Because evergreens don't wilt like deciduous plants do, they often don't show the symptoms of drought stress or diseases until long after the damage has been done. Choose evergreen trees that have a single central leader and good branch structure. Inspect the trunk for damage or oozing sap. If possible, purchase trees that have not been sheared, as if for Christmas trees. Sheared trees will take several years in the landscape to regain their natural shape once regular shearing ends. Evergreens should be planted in spring, summer or early fall. While deciduous plants can be planted later in fall, evergreens benefit from having some time while the soil is relatively warm to start to become established. If evergreens are planted too late in fall, they will not be well-hydrated and may "burn" or brown during winter. This is due to moisture loss from foliage that cannot be replaced by the roots. Balled and burlapped or containerized evergreens can be planted the same way as deciduous plants. For detailed instructions on planting, see Planting Bare Root, Containerized and Balled and Burlapped Trees and Shrubs. Maintenance of Evergreen Trees and Shrubs Pruning
Most evergreen trees rarely require any pruning, provided they are planted where they have adequate space to grow. Evergreen shrubs, however, can sometimes benefit from regular pruning that keeps them from getting bare and overgrown. Most evergreens, other than pines, are best pruned before spring growth begins. They can also be pruned in mid-summer, when they are "semi-dormant". Avoid shearing evergreens, unless they are part of a formal garden or hedge. Instead, maintain the natural form of the shrub by heading back the longest shoots to a natural spot or vigorous bud. Unlike deciduous plants, evergreens do not readily sprout from a cut branch. Be sure to not make any "holes" in the plant's structure when pruning, as it may take several years to fill in.

Pines (Pinus)


• Pines rarely require any pruning. To reduce growth and limit plant size, you can remove up to 2/3 of the length of "candles", or new, soft growth in late spring. Mugho pine shrubs can also be sheared regularly for a very formal effect. However, this should only be done as part of an overall formal design, as they will look out of place in an otherwise naturalistic landscape.
  
  Junipers (Juniperus)
  
  
• Upright junipers can be pruned into formal shapes, or selectively pruned to maintain a desired shape. If trying to control the shape or size of the plant, pruning should be done each year, removing 2/3 of the new growth. Spreading and creeping junipers can be kept looking their best by removing two or three of the longest, thickest, most vigorous branches each year. Cut back to the next main stem to encourage young growth. If branches are allowed to get thick and a lot of woody stems are visible, they can be cut back to the base. However, it will take several years for new growth to fill. Always maintain the horizontal form of creeping and spreading junipers, and do not shear in a formal way.
• Thank for asking.
  

I apologize for not being clear in my question.  I wanted to know if I need to be concerned about the arborvitae's roots damaging the foundation.  (I'm not so concerned about any negative effects on the tree itself).

Well that is a whole new perspective.  First of all I would like to know what material the foundation is and how old. If the foundation concrete block for about the last ten years should have a waterproofing on them.  If it is poured concrete also would have some kind of waterproofing on the outside barrier.  If a wood foundation  this would be lined with a plastic.  All of these foundations have some degree of vulnerability to tree root damage over time and it seems this is true if the Arborvitae is that big, the roots get big too and with such a narrow distance the roots are next to the foundation.  There is also possibilities that these foundation materials over time can get cracks and roots will fill them.My suggestion would be to take these trees/shrubs out.