Can I save a dying tree? - Ask Extension
I have a youngblood maple (red) in my yard which I planted about eight years ago. Last year, it began showing signs of stress: curling leaves that d...
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Can I save a dying tree? #146230
Asked August 09, 2013, 12:45 PM EDT
I have a youngblood maple (red) in my yard which I planted about eight years ago. Last year, it began showing signs of stress: curling leaves that dried up and fell during July and August. This year, it's even worse. There may be three factors involved with this: 1) A daphne growing three feet away suddenly died. I dug it up and planted a day lily in same spot. 2) I had "Blue Star Creeper" growing under the tree (and very near the daphne which may have caused its demise?) becoming invasive so I sprayed the creeper with salt/vinegar solution to kill it. 3) Where the base of the trunk meets the soil, I can see some sort of damage. The bark has grown (or not grown?) in an area of about three square inches exposing the inner layer. Not sure what would cause this? So, do you think there is any way I can save the tree? I've been giving it lots of water, have always fertilized it spring and fall. Thank you for your help.
Multnomah County Oregon
Expert Response
Hello and thank you for asking about the decline of your maple tree. The damage at the soil line doesn't look good, and could be caused by mechanical damage or one of various diseases. Coupled with the canopy damage you describe, your tree might not make it. It is very hard to tell you exactly what will happen.
Some things to consider include how the tree was planted and cared for: they seldom need fertilizing twice a year. The planting depth should allow the "root flare" to show at the trunk. Too deep, and damage will happen over time. Also, don't allow mulch at the bark, as that can give access for pests and disease.
Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne disease that occurs in some landscapes and kills maple trees in particular. Daphne is also susceptible, so perhaps this is the problem. Here are links to pages about Verticillium Wilt from WSU http://pep.wsu.edu/hortsense/scripts/query/displayProblem.asp?tableName=Disease&categoryID=12&problemID=4011 And from the Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Handbook, here is a listing with resistant and susceptible plants to use when choosing a replacement: http://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/pathogen-articles/pathogens-common-many-plants/fungi/plants-resistant-or-susceptible-verticillium-wi
The WSU page shows a photo of the typical dark stain on wood with Verticillium Wilt. If you want help identifying this on your tree, consider taking branches to the Master Gardener Volunteers. Call them in Multnomah County at 503–445–4608 for location and hours, and to find out which farmers' markets offer clinics.
One of my favorite articles by Oregon State Extension Gardening is "A dead tree or shrub? Learn from a post-mortem analysis", http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/dead-tree-or-shrub-post-mortem-analysis It includes a brief overview of the sorts of things that can go wrong. If/when you remove the maple, take time to wash off the roots and look at how they have grown. Perhaps you'll find rotten roots? Or circling roots choking off the base? Send in a photo here, or share with the Master Gardener Volunteers for more insight about what went wrong if you get to this point.
Should you take out the tree now? That is a judgement call for you to make. Send a photo of the top of the tree and I could offer an opinion. Most homeowners give their trees a year or two to "pull through" before making a new plant choice.
Please let me know how I could help more.
Some things to consider include how the tree was planted and cared for: they seldom need fertilizing twice a year. The planting depth should allow the "root flare" to show at the trunk. Too deep, and damage will happen over time. Also, don't allow mulch at the bark, as that can give access for pests and disease.
Verticillium Wilt is a soil-borne disease that occurs in some landscapes and kills maple trees in particular. Daphne is also susceptible, so perhaps this is the problem. Here are links to pages about Verticillium Wilt from WSU http://pep.wsu.edu/hortsense/scripts/query/displayProblem.asp?tableName=Disease&categoryID=12&problemID=4011 And from the Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Handbook, here is a listing with resistant and susceptible plants to use when choosing a replacement: http://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/pathogen-articles/pathogens-common-many-plants/fungi/plants-resistant-or-susceptible-verticillium-wi
The WSU page shows a photo of the typical dark stain on wood with Verticillium Wilt. If you want help identifying this on your tree, consider taking branches to the Master Gardener Volunteers. Call them in Multnomah County at 503–445–4608 for location and hours, and to find out which farmers' markets offer clinics.
One of my favorite articles by Oregon State Extension Gardening is "A dead tree or shrub? Learn from a post-mortem analysis", http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/dead-tree-or-shrub-post-mortem-analysis It includes a brief overview of the sorts of things that can go wrong. If/when you remove the maple, take time to wash off the roots and look at how they have grown. Perhaps you'll find rotten roots? Or circling roots choking off the base? Send in a photo here, or share with the Master Gardener Volunteers for more insight about what went wrong if you get to this point.
Should you take out the tree now? That is a judgement call for you to make. Send a photo of the top of the tree and I could offer an opinion. Most homeowners give their trees a year or two to "pull through" before making a new plant choice.
Please let me know how I could help more.
Jacki,
Thank you for your knowledgeable reply, complete with links to further resources. The tree was a gift from some dear friends, and I don't want to loose it if at all possible. I will try to include a couple more images of the tree top; last time, only one would attach.
Thank you again for your expertise.
Terri
Thank you for your knowledgeable reply, complete with links to further resources. The tree was a gift from some dear friends, and I don't want to loose it if at all possible. I will try to include a couple more images of the tree top; last time, only one would attach.
Thank you again for your expertise.
Terri
Hi Terri, sometimes a tree looses a branch here and there, but if the whole tree is involved, there isn't any pruning I can recommend. I would stop fertilizing it, as you don't want to encourage fast growth that might overwhelm the roots. Allow the soil to dry out some between waterings, and pull any mulch back from the base of the tree a few inches. Sometimes a tree can lose leaves early one year and do okay the following. I can't promise that will happen though.
We recommend clients hire a certified arborist for questions about high-importance trees in their landscape. The advantage is having a professional able to see the tree first-hand. Ask about the costs when you contact them.
While the tree is alive, consider removing a branch about the diameter of a finger, and cut it like in the WSU photo (prior link) to look for the verticillium wilt stain, because knowing about this soil disease will be important as you choose plants in this part of your yard. Once a plant has been dead for awhile, you won't be able to test it this easy way.
Here's hoping for the best.
We recommend clients hire a certified arborist for questions about high-importance trees in their landscape. The advantage is having a professional able to see the tree first-hand. Ask about the costs when you contact them.
While the tree is alive, consider removing a branch about the diameter of a finger, and cut it like in the WSU photo (prior link) to look for the verticillium wilt stain, because knowing about this soil disease will be important as you choose plants in this part of your yard. Once a plant has been dead for awhile, you won't be able to test it this easy way.
Here's hoping for the best.
Jacki,
Thank you again. The information you provided is very helpful. I will stop watering every day, and will not fertilize this fall. I may even have over-fertilized last fall and this spring thinking it would help. I appreciate your expertise! Maybe one of these days, I'll become a Master Gardener:)
Terri
Thank you again. The information you provided is very helpful. I will stop watering every day, and will not fertilize this fall. I may even have over-fertilized last fall and this spring thinking it would help. I appreciate your expertise! Maybe one of these days, I'll become a Master Gardener:)
Terri
